The author of The Eternal City: Recipes and Stories from Rome shares a taboo-breaking recipe from Italy’s capital.

Many food purists say seafood and cheese don’t mix. In my family, you never saw cheese on the table if pasta with fish was being served. And in Italy, if you were to ask for it at a restaurant after having ordered spaghetti alle vongole or risotto alla crema di scampi, you’d just about get arrested. Yet, the memo seems to have been missed with this dish in Rome. Gnocchi with mussels and pecorino is on the menu at many Roman trattorie, and it’s some sort of a divine match.
My friend Angelo’s gnocchi — his paternal Nonna Stella’s recipe — is just perfect. He’d come home from school at lunchtime and she would ask what he’d like to eat. When he said gnocchi, she would roll up her sleeves and make them from scratch. Gnocchi is a delicious dish any day of the week, but why not do as the Romans do and make Thursdays “gnocchi day” at your house too!