One of the greatest food capitals of the world, New York City is spoiled for choice when it comes to entertaining the palate. Whether grabbing a slice of pizza to go or sitting down to a multicourse fine-dining experience, there’s always a new place to explore.
Despite all the options, there are spots with dishes so good they’re worth going back for again and again. Salumeria Rosi in the East Village is one of those places, and its cacio e pepe is everything one could hope for. Freshly made spaghetti tossed with Parmigiano Reggiano, pecorino and black pepper, stays true to the traditional preparation of this classic Roman dish. The sauce, a creamy emulsion of rich flavors, coats every strand of pasta. Just a few ingredients yet they deliver a perfect bite. In lieu of fancy tablecloths, a simple brown-paper placemat stamped with the restaurant’s name serves as the surface for this delicious bowl of noodles.
Italian provisions and pasta
Salumeria Rosi is the kind of place where a vintage flywheel slicer greets you at the door and a refrigerated display case filled with Italian salumi and cheeses is the prelude to a warm, inviting dining room. The setting is casual, but the food is thoughtful. Sfogliatelle, cornetti and maritozzi are on display in the morning. Made-to-order panini offer a quick lunch option, and the salumi and cheeses from the refrigerated showcase are sold by the pound.
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The restaurant’s menu features a range of Italian dishes, showcasing some of the ingredients available for sale. Salumi boards offer a selection of cured meats, cheeses and accompaniments, including little side bites that are no less essential, from olives and artichoke hearts to taralli. Pasta dishes are available in half or full portions, inviting sharing and sampling a little of everything. All the pasta is made in-house. The must-have cacio e pepe shares a menu with campanelle al pesto and spaghetti al pomodoro, the later tossed in DOP San Marzano tomato sauce and finished with basil olive oil.
From the counter to the table
The heart of a salumeria reflects the Italian tradition of shopping for cured meats, cheeses and other pantry staples, while also being able to grab a freshly prepared bite along the way. Salumeria Rosi brings that spirit to the dining room, creating a place that works for a casual meal as well as a quick stop for Italian provisions. It is an appealing combination, especially for diners who appreciate the ingredients behind a dish as much as the finished one.
On a recent visit, I started with a Phony Negroni, a bittersweet blend of citrus and herbs that captures the soul of the classic aperitivo in mocktail form. Arancini followed, which I was sure to pick up with my hand, the way this type of street food is meant to be enjoyed. The crispy exterior was a nice contrast to the tender center of oozing mozzarella di bufala. and the marinara it was served with provided a bright note. Then came the cacio e pepe, the dish that makes a case for skipping a visit to another new restaurant in NYC and returning to this spot instead.
A meal worth repeating
The beauty of a good cacio e pepe lies in its simplicity and the quality of the ingredients that speak for themselves, and this one understands the assignment. Ricotta cheesecake with fresh whipped cream arrived for dessert, smaller than expected but just the right amount to satisfy a sweet tooth without making the overall meal feel heavy.
With a menu made for sharing and no need to make a big production out of a good meal, Salumeria Rosi offers familiar Italian flavors in a relaxed setting. In a city where new restaurants open constantly, that combination of thoughtful cooking, warm surroundings and a memorable bowl of cacio e pepe makes Salumeria Rosi worth keeping on the repeat list.
