For more than three decades, every pizza at Palio has passed through the hands of pizzaiolo Donaldo Cruz. His days begin early, tending to dough and flame, but his love for San Francisco extends far beyond the kitchen. From his neighborhood routines to the familiar faces he greets along the way, San Francisco is a city that Donaldo knows by heart. To celebrate National Pizza Day, Appetito turns its attention to the people behind the oven, starting with Donaldo.
Mornings in San Francisco
I wake up early - always early - around 5 a.m. I shower, get dressed and by 6 a.m. I take the 44 bus heading toward Glen Park. I stop at 16th and Mission for a coffee and a pork tamale from Doña Maria. That part never changes. After that, I take BART to Montgomery Station and walk to Palio.
When I arrive, the first thing I do is prepare the dough for the next day. That is the most important part of my job. Then I work on the tomato sauce and all the toppings. I slice cheese, make sausage and braise mushrooms. Everything has to be ready before service begins. During a busy lunch shift, I will make about 25 pizzas, not including pizzas for private events.
Afternoon routine
Around 3 p.m., I head home using the same route, just without the food stop. Once I am home, I rest. I usually go to bed early.
If I have energy, I spend time in my garden. I water the plants and pull weeds until the sun goes down.
Evenings and weekends
I live with my sister, and she often cooks traditional Honduran food like baleadas, which are kind of like a giant open-faced quesadilla, and not so different from pizza.
On the weekends, I go to Crocker-Amazon to watch soccer matches. People there call me Papi Futbol because they have known me for years from my involvement in the local soccer scene.
I also love visiting the Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park and the Zoo. I enjoy walking around, seeing the exhibits and spending time with the animals.
A love of Pizza
For me, pizza is not about trends. The soul of pizza lives in the tomato sauce. That is where you see the pizzaiolo’s style. My favorite pizza is the Margherita. After all these years, my goal is still simple. Every pizza should feel like it was made just for you, with care and love.
Valentine’s Day at Palio
This year, the beloved San Francisco institution will offer a special S. Valentino prix-fixe menu at $120 per person, featuring dishes like crab arancini, Maine lobster ravioli, herb-crusted rack of lamb and a banana coconut panna cotta. Make reservations, and of course, stop by and ask for Pizzaiolo Donaldo.
At the time of publication, Palio still has a few Valentine’s Day reservations available.
