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Culinary Storytelling in Calabria with Chef Amy Riolo

A report from the recent forum in Calabria dedicated to cuisine and culture.

“Calabria Through Storytelling” International Forum at Max Trattoria Enoteca in Calabria,

“Calabria Through Storytelling” International Forum at Max Trattoria Enoteca in Calabria.

It's no secret that cuisine and culture go hand in hand, so participating in a forum in my ancestral homeland which gives equal attention to both components was both a food and history lover’s dream come true! I was honored to have been asked not only to present once again, but also to prepare one of the courses in the dinner and help to organize the event.

The “Calabria Through Storytelling International Forum” was idealized by Chef Salvatore Murano, who also founded L’Associazione Regionale Cuochi Pittagorici (ARCP), which unites the best chefs from each of Calabria’s five provinces along with archeologists, professors, writers, and representatives from Calabria around the globe. Renowned gastronomist, journalist, and author, Gianfranco Manfredi, moderated the roundtable discussions.

(From Left: Chef /Owner Salvatore Murano, Designer Giuseppe Fata, Chef Amy Riolo, Giovanna Giordano, General Director of Casa Italia Montreal, Chef Luigi Quintieri in the kitchen of Max Trattoria Enoteca in Cirò Marina, Calabria with Amy Riolo’s traditional cookie recipes.
From Left: Chef /Owner Salvatore Murano, Designer Giuseppe Fata, Chef Amy Riolo, Giovanna Giordano, General Director of Casa Italia Montreal, Chef Luigi Quintieri in the kitchen of Max Trattoria Enoteca in Cirò Marina, Calabria with Amy Riolo’s traditional cookie recipes.

For the second year in a row, the glorious “Calabria Through Storytelling” event was held to illustrate through discussions and a multi-course dinner the region’s 30 centuries of history and how even prior to the Greek colonization of Southern Italy in the 8th Century BCE, Calabria already had a booming culinary scene and a thriving wine sector.

Organized by award-winning chef Salvatore Murano, chef Vincenzo Murano, and Calabrian Counselor in Germany Silvestro Parise, the event shed light on how Calabria was home to the powerful and illustrious Itali people (whose name inspired the word Italia), as well as on the large Calabrian diaspora in the world. The event garnered sold-out status, amazing feedback, and major press coverage. A respected culinary historian and archeology enthusiast, for which he was dubbed “Archeo-Chef,” Salvatore Murano is also an expert on the cuisine of ancient Magna Grecia and contributed to the opening of an archeological museum.

Fresh, Chilled Tomato and Bread Soup with Iced Local Anchovies, Fior di Latte Cheese, Candied Lemons.
Fresh, Chilled Tomato and Bread Soup with Iced Local Anchovies, Fior di Latte Cheese, Candied Lemons.

During the morning session, scholar and educator Pasquale Casile shared the ancient Greek origins of the fig-stuffed Petrali cookies (which are called Cuccidati in Sicily) that I prepared for the event. Archeologist and President of the Accademy of Fine Arts of Catanzaro, Dr. Stefania Mancuso, recounted the ancient Mediterranean synergy that Calabria enjoyed. I spoke of “Calabria Seen Through American Eyes, Ways to Promote The Region in the Future, and The Mediterranean Diet.” Professor Giovanna Giordano, Director of the Casa d’Italia in Montréal Québec, discussed the role of Calabrians as well as their cuisine and culture in Canada. Distinguished guests during the morning session included the 3-time Oscar winner for Fashion in Dubai, Giuseppe Fata, who is also the President of Simulacrum (Italian National Church Project).

Mostaccioli di mandorle (Chocolate, Almond, and Spice Stuffed Cookies from San Giovanni in Fiore made with Amy Riolo Selections EVOO (Tenute Cristiano).
Mostaccioli di Mandorle: Chocolate, Almond, and Spice Stuffed Cookies from San Giovanni in Fiore made with Amy Riolo Selections EVOO (Tenute Cristiano).

Led by Chef Salvatore Murano, the ARCP chefs Gaetano Alia, Luigi Ammirati, Vincenzo Murano, Luigi Quintieri, Pierluigi Vacca, Giuseppe Pizzata, Ercole Villirillo, Antonio Franzè, Paolo Caridi, Rocco Iannì, Daniele Viola, and myself created modern interpretations of historical Calabrian dishes which collectively told the complete story of Calabria during a historic, multi- course meal at dinner. Each dish represented not only various periods in Calabria’s history but also prized local products and modern interpretations and techniques.

Honoring traditions, small villages, tourism, archeological sites, and museums in Calabria along with its unique culinary products and mouthwatering creations from each of the chefs literally made the 3,000 year history of the region palatable. It was a delicious reminder that food is, and always will be the greatest testimony of a people.

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