Skip to Content
Features

Brooklyn’s Williamsburg Needed an Italian Savior: Enter Bar Madonna

Our contributor revels in the new Italian addition of Bar Madonna to the dining scene in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

The exterior of Bar Madonna at 367 Metropolitan Avenue in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

The exterior of Bar Madonna at 367 Metropolitan Avenue in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

At the beginning of last summer, I heard news that made my heart drop. My favorite, local red sauce Italian restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, the neighborhood institution known as Frost, announced it was closing its doors after over 60 years in business. As the community rapidly gentrifies, trading families for high rollers and Italian Americans for Meta employees, Frost was a garlic-flavored anchor. For those who never had the pleasure of dining at its eponymous Frost St. location, the restaurant was uniquely old school, fairly priced, and absolutely delicious. In other words, a modern rarity.

The understatement of the millennium is that Williamsburg has been changing. And with it, the native Italian American businesses that used to inhabit its blocks are disappearing. I recently learned that before my own time here, there used to be a business that solely made and sold mozzarella right on my block. Today, in the same building, there’s a smoke shop.

A new generation is sweeping into the neighborhood, largely unaware of its history; private enterprises are being demolished by private retailers and, as a result, there’s a significantly diminished Italian influence.

The interior of Bar Madonna.
The interior of Bar Madonna.

But every so often, there’s a glimmer of hope. Some cannoli at the end of the rainbow. In fact, cannoli are on the menu at Bar Madonna, a welcome new Italian face to Williamsburg’s dining scene. Usually, when you hear of a new addition in the neighborhood, it’s a luxury brand or a 30-story luxury tower. While stylish, Bar Madonna is neither a luxury brand nor a luxury tower; it's a casual Italian eatery that bridges a gap from old school to the new generation. 

One facet of said bridge is the design, from the custom plates with quirky illustrations of the owner’s Italian family members, to collaborating with the popular artist and close neighbor, KidSuper, who designed everything from the staff’s Mechanic shirts to the massive paintings that adorn the loft-like space. 

Nonna's Half & Half at Bar Madonna.
Nonna's Half & Half at Bar Madonna. Photo by Carbon Stories.

The cocktail menu bridges that gap as well, with offerings such as the Moka-pot inspired Bialetti (with vodka, Mr. Black Coffee Liqueur, Oloroso Sherry, hazelnut and coffee) or Nonna's Half & Half (a martini that blends vodka and gin). Meanwhile, its spin on the Cipriani’s-born Bellini revs up the drink with peach, plum, gin and prosecco. The liquor shelf at Bar Madonna is full of old school standards and hard to find libations. Of course, there’s sambuca, but there’s also Cardamaro, an apertif made with wine, cardoon and blessed thistle (the latter two ingredients being artichoke-adjacent). 

Calabrian Wings at Bar Madonna.
Calabrian Wings at Bar Madonna. Photo by Carbon Stories.

The food menu at Bar Madonna extends the motif of a low-key Italian joint that is hip yet approachable. Their Smashed Meatball Parm sandwich is both succulent and crispy; the Calabrian Wings are made with Calabrian hot sauce and a buttermilk vinaigrette. There's grilled octopus with spicy radish and mint, and a Caesar salad of grilled romaine and wild boar bacon. My favorite thing on the menu is the Crispy Chicken Agrodolce: a juicy and flavorful sandwich served on a soft roll that comes complete with cabbage slaw and roasted tomatoes. It’s something I still dream about at night…Until I’m woken up by the yells of the construction workers who are building a luxury condo next door.

Stay in touch

Sign up for our free newsletter

More from Appetito

Café Maud’s Frozen Aperol Spritz Is a Cool Take on a Summer Favorite

A neighborhood café in NYC's East Village has a frozen version of the ubiquitous Aperol Spritz to help stay cool this summer.

July 25, 2025

How to Make a Cucumber Mezcal Spritz

This cucumber mezcal spritz, bright and botanical with a citrusy twist, may be the most refreshing drink of the summer.

July 25, 2025

Unwind at Vallata’s Aperitivo Hour in Union Square

Vallata’s aperitivo hour near Union Square features Italian cocktails, regional wines, and small bites made with fresh market ingredients.

Playing with Fire Returns to Peasant with New Guest Chef Lineup

Chef Marc Forgione’s Playing with Fire series returns to Peasant in NoHo with a new slate of collaborative dinners, featuring chefs Cosme Aguilar, Ayesha Nurdjaja, the Voltaggio brothers, and Eric Adjepong.

Bay Area Ferragosto at Johnny & Sanny’s in Mountain View

Johnny & Sanny’s brings Ferragosto to downtown Mountain View with lobster pasta, patio music, and festive summer energy.

See all posts