It’s time to venture to a glitzy place where the lights flash, machines buzz, cash flows, and, most importantly, a unique kind of Italian food is dished out in plentiful portions.
From New York City, drive north toward Albany and then hang a sharp left as you cruise through the serene valleys and rolling hills of Central New York. Suddenly, it appears like an apparition: Turning Stone Resort and Casino, a mecca of gambling and joyful debauchery amid the quiet countryside.
I’m headed to Turning Stone to feast on a unique style of Italian food served only in this part of the country, where dishes have their own unique spin on the cuisine, separate from that of the Big Apple.
But first things first: It’s time to check into my room at The Crescent. Opened in July, the luxury tower is part of a $400 million dollar renovation for the complex, which first opened in 1993. Since then, Turning Stone has grown into a Vegas-style Northeast oasis. Walking into the opulent lobby (which is flanked by serene gardens and squirting fountains), I’m greeted by shiny floors, midcentury-modern furniture and a towering ceiling.
To kick off my quest to explore Western New York-style Italian, it’s time for a Negroni. But before that, I get changed in my opulent suite at The Crescent, which is outfitted with everything from a fireplace to a palatial bathroom and spectacular views of the Oneida Valley. I could get used to this.
Then, a short elevator ride zips me to Salt. The newest restaurant here, one of 26 on the property, Salt is a fine-dining paradise with a menu full of seafood and steaks. If you’re looking for fancy, it’s here.
On its expansive menu are Italian favorites with a twist. Take, for instance, the Calamari and Shrimp Fritto, served with cherry peppers and a delectably spicy Fresno chili sauce and a cilantro-jalapeño cream. Meanwhile, there’s a decadent Lobster Pasta tossed with a cherry-pepper relish and tomato cream. I told you it was fancy. Naturally, my chilled Negroni complemented the proceedings nicely.
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While Turning Stone boasts 125,000 square feet of casino space, I’m admittedly not much of a gambler. Lucky for me, there’s a bunch of other things to occupy my time. I take a dip in the pool at their rustic concept, The Lodge, and opt for a facial at Skʌ:nʌ́: Spa, which honors the Native American heritage of the complex.
With my face bright and clean, I head to The Sportsbook to watch the Yankees win yet another game. (Ok, maybe they lost. What’s the difference?) Another afternoon, my friend even convinces me to head to bingo. Held in a massive hall with hundreds of competitors, they take their games seriously. Players flaunt custom markers and hang on every word as shouts of B-11! ring through the space.
As night falls during my final night at Turning Stone, it’s time for a finale ultimo: dinner at Pino Bianco, Turning Stone’s Italiano offering. It’s the kind of place where the tablecloths are checkered-red and the walls are lipstick red as well, both depicting an old school vibe. Edison bulbs hang over the space, while gold-framed mirrors complement the scene.
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Naturally, I order up a Negroni to compliment the red hue, and a platter of antipasti is trotted out. Large white plates of roasted red peppers, still flaunting char marks, appear on the table. Next to them are thick slices of provolone and a bevy of succulent and green long hot peppers, also blistered. On the menu, they call it Peppers Misto. On another plate is a smattering of olives, hot honey, crostini, sliced coppa from Brooklyn and Parmesan cheese from Parma, Italy.
A helping of fried calamari is in the cards as well. Theirs has a unique Americana spin: The fish is breaded and fried alongside similarly-sliced strips of banana peppers, while the dipping sauces included both marinara and a tangy mayo. Then there’s the baked ricotta: a creamy, indulgent and warm ricotta dip served with crostini and hot-honey oil. Western New Yorkers love to chow down as hard as possible—case in point, Rochester’s famed ‘Garbage Plates’— and this dip continues that tradition.
Then there’s our entrées and sides, house-made ricotta gnocchi tossed with peas, a delectable lasagna and a classic chicken piccata. The most notable local star is a side by the name Utica Greens. Named after New York town (legend has it that it originated in the restaurants in the area in the 80s), it’s essentially an escarole casserole. The leafy greens are sauteed and tossed with cherry peppers, cheese, garlic and olive oil. Here at Pino, the dish is topped with crunchy breadcrumbs, creating a cross-section of region and cuisine.
The dinner was like a visit to the property at large: fun, colorful and a feast for the eyes and ears, and all uniquely local. The only thing left to hit the slots. Wish me luck.
