Across the wetlands, burnt golden under a baking sky, a fisherman stands in a small boat pulling up nets. I watch from the island, shading my eyes from the sun. We’re among those fortunate enough to live among traditional fishermen in northern Venice, those who still work sustainably as curators of the land. Known as “serajanti,” their numbers are dwindling fast.
Venetian moeca, or soft-shell crab, has long been Venice’s culinary claim to fame. The tiny Mediterranean green crabs are caught in spring and fall, deep-fried in a coat of flour and sprinkled with salt. Easy peasy and fabulously good.
About two years ago, though, the blue crab arrived in Venice from South Carolina, so experts say, and made quick work of annihilating our beloved moeche. The event has felt proportionate to a Biblical plague, creating a seismic shift not only in local cuisine and heritage, but also in the livelihoods of hundreds of fisher families. Where moeca went for some €100/kilogram, blue crab is taking in about €1.50. Adapting has been rough.
Some fishermen have tried to fry them up as soft-shell crab, a valiant effort if not disappointing. Restaurants have added signature blue crab dishes to their menus, while others encourage eating as many as possible in order to reduce their population. All good intentions, but hardly effective. We were left with a startling reality: blue crab is now a permanent part of our daily routine. How are we going to cope?
On this broiling summer day, we pile a pot to boil full of today’s catch and lay the table on the veranda, where the air is cooler. “We’re going to make salad,” says the fisherman, “that sweet meat with some fresh date tomatoes from Sant’ Erasmo… just wait and see.” I pour glasses of Prosecco and get to picking the shells clean. High in protein and best on the day it’s made, we make as much as we can eat and toss the rest back in the lagoon for the fish. It’s a summer feast. Simple ingredients, locally sourced and fresh out of the water are best in these parts – paired with the smiles and company of friends.
Blue Crab Salad, the Way Burano Fishermen Make it Work
That first year of the blue crab invasion back in 2023, Buranello fishermen tried out countless recipes, inventing as they went. In sizzling hot weather with humidity levels rivalling the American Midwest, a cool salad hit the spot. Serve with cold Prosecco or a light beer, and a side of crispy bread.
Blue Crab Salad, Burano Fisherman Style
4
servings20
minutes40
minutesIngredients
8 8 blue crabs
1 lb. 1 date ("datterino") tomatoes
3 tbs. 3 organic cold-pressed virgin olive oil
Maldon or flake salt
2 2 celery stalks
1/2 cup 1/2 fresh parsley
1 head 1 Bibb lettuce
fresh lemon juice, if desired
1 loaf 1 bread, cut in thick slices
Directions
- Place the crabs in a large pot filled with room-temperature water, and heat.
- Once boiling, cook for 20 min. Drain, rinse with cool water, and chill.
- Wash the tomatoes and halve.
- Take the tenderest stalks of the celery, wash and chop.
- In a medium frying pan, heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil with a clove of garlic. Then remove and discard the garlic and give the bread a toast until crispy. Salt or season to taste.
- Clean and pick the meat from the crab (check out the video below by Crab Corner in Maryland on how that’s done).
- Once your meat is in a bowl, go over it to be sure no pieces of shell have been left behind. Then use your hands to separate the meat into small even-sized pieces.
- Add the tomatoes, celery and parsley, drizzle with olive oil and toss with the crab.
- Plate the salad and serve with the toasted bread.
Recipe Video
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