How Calabrian Cooking Shaped Chef Tony Mantuano

9:00 AM EDT on April 19, 2023

The Nashville-based chef behind several classic Italian restaurants writes about the five dishes that inspired his career and shares his base risotto recipe

Growing up with Italian immigrant grandparents I was introduced to Italian cooking at an early age. My grandparents had a grocery store where my grandfather was the butcher. My grandmother was a fantastic cook, and at home they always had a huge garden.

We would always go to their house for Sunday meals where Grandma served traditional, authentic dishes of their home region of Calabria. Adhering to tradition was their and subsequently my family’s way of life. So, the theme for these 5 dishes are just that. Tradition with respect for the highest quality ingredients, with an occasional luxurious twist, and lots of love thrown in.

Spaghetti Carbonara

close up photography of pasta with white sauce — Photo by Engin Akyurt on Pexels.com

Often bastardized in America, the sauce should only contain egg yolks, pecorino Romano cheese, guanciale, black pepper and pasta water. Any additional ingredients render the dish something else, a fraud in my opinion.

Risotto alla Parmigiana

This is the first recipe I learned to prepare when I staged in Italy and will always have a special place in my heart for that reason. Simplicity is my mantra when it comes to this classic, satisfying dish. Remember there is only one Parmigiano—Parmigiano-Reggiano. There is no substitute and that’s why this dish is so great. The creaminess of the rice and the richness and sweetness of the cheese is like no other.

Tortelli di Zucca

I learned this regional dish from Chef Nadia Santini at the 3-Michelin starred Dal Pescatore in Canneto sull’Oglio. The unique filling is made from pumpkin, Parmigiano-Reggiano, amaretti cookies, mostarda and breadcrumbs. This dish dates to a time before tomatoes were brought to Italy from the New World. We have prepared this amazing dish in our restaurants for many years when pumpkins and squash are in season. Guests are always so surprised and pleased to taste this unexpected blend of flavors.

Gnocchi

My Grandma’s gnocchi was my comfort food growing up. In the restaurant, we take the basic recipe of potatoes, flour and egg yolks and turn it up by adding grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to the dough. The sauce we serve it with is unlike my Nonna’s red sauce, it’s made with ricotta cheese and cream. To make this humble pasta dish even more luxurious, we add a generous shaving of truffles, both winter white or summer black depending on the time of the year. This dish continues to be the most popular pasta on our menus for 20 plus years. I know Grandma would approve.

Steak Tagliata

When I worked in Lucca, this was the second most popular way to eat steak. Such an easy preparation, so simple yet flavorful, I love it to this day. Uniquely Tuscan, the steak is grilled rare, left to rest, then sliced and put on a plate. Then the plate is put back on the stove and under low heat cooks ever so gently until the meat just starts to sizzle. Remove from the heat and season with rosemary, sea salt and extra virgin olive oil. It's hard to resist the aromas of the seasoned cooked meat. Add some olive oil, and lemon dressed arugula and you have a very satisfying meal.

Here's my risotto recipe to use as a base for more creative dishes, such as a red shrimp risotto that's been featured at my restaurant Yolan at the Joseph Nashville.

Risotto

Recipe by Tony Mantuano

0.0 from 0 votes

Servings

servings

Prep time

minutes

Cooking time

minutes

Ingredients

4 cups 4 chicken stock
Two Two 3-to-4-inch-long Parmigiano rinds
6 tablespoons 6 butter
1 1 finely chopped shallot
2 cups 2 Carnaroli rice, preferably Acquarello
1 cup 1 dry white wine
1 1 ½ cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus extra for serving
Sea salt

Directions

Heat the chicken stock and the Parmigiano rinds in a sauce pot until almost boiling, then lower the heat and keep hot.
In a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, add 3 tablespoons of the butter and the shallot and sauté gently without browning, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the rice and while stirring continuously coat the rice with the butter and shallot.
Add the wine and let simmer, again stirring continuously, until almost completely absorbed.
Add the hot stock into the skillet a ladleful at a time and let simmer after each addition.
Cook the rice in this manner, stirring continuously waiting until the liquid is almost completely absorbed before adding more stock.
When all the liquid has been added and the rice is al dente (tender but firm to the bite) about 13 to 14 minutes, remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Season to taste with salt if necessary.
Divide the risotto among 6 warmed plates. Sprinkle with additional freshly grated Parmigiano.
Serve immediately.