An Expat’s Take on Fresh Porcini in a Tuscan Pasta Classic

Name: Tagliatelle with Porcini Mushrooms
Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 20 min
Total time: 40 min
Ingredients: Kosher or coarse sea salt; 1 clove garlic; 1/4 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed; 8 ounces fresh porcini mushrooms (or substitute cremini or portobello), cut into bite-size pieces; 1 small dried chile pepper, crushed (optional); 1 sprig fresh thyme; freshly ground black pepper; 1 pound fresh pasta sheets, cut into long noodles using a pasta machine attachment or by hand

The elegance of fresh Porcini mushrooms is on display in a recipe from an expat living in the hills of Tuscany.

By John Bersani

10:00 AM EDT on March 25, 2025

Tagliatelle with Fresh Porcini Mushrooms.

Early spring in Chianti can be cruel. It’ll tease you with a string of warm, sunny weather, then rain for days on end. There is a silver lining: fresh porcini. Porcini-based dishes can be found on trattoria menus throughout the year, but the mushrooms have either been frozen (something that by law must be noted on menus) or imported from other parts of Europe. Spring rains bring fresh, locally foraged porcini to restaurant tables—in salads, in omelets, and, of course, in this iconic Tuscan pasta classic.

If you don’t have the time or inclination to prepare the fresh pasta, there are many high-quality fresh and dried pasta noodles available in better supermarkets and specialty food shops.

This tagliatelle stands well on its own as a main course with a simple antipasto of bruschette miste or serve half portions as a starter course (or “primo” in the Italian tradition).

A recommended wine pairing is Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2020. The balanced fruit and earthiness of this wine from Gaiole’s Monti subzone is the perfect accompaniment to any mushroom-centric dish. If this particular wine is not available, any Chianti Classico will do!

Enjoy the recipe below and find other from my adopted Tuscan village and life in my new book 20 Amici 40 Ricette; Friends & Food from the Heart of Chianti.

"20 Amici 40 Ricette; Friends & Food from the Heart of Chianti" by John Bersani.

Tagliatelle with Porcini Mushrooms

Recipe by andrewappetito

0.0 from 0 votes

Servings

servings

Prep time

minutes

Cooking time

minutes

Ingredients

Kosher or coarse sea salt
1 clove 1 garlic
1/4 cup 1/4 best-quality extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
8 ounces 8 fresh porcini mushrooms (or substitute cremini or portobello), cut into bite-size pieces
1 small 1 dried chile pepper, crushed (optional)
1 sprig 1 fresh thyme
freshly ground black pepper
1 pound 1 fresh pasta sheets, cut into long noodles using a pasta machine attachment or by hand

Directions

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat; salt the water generously.
Place the flat side of a kitchen knife on top of the garlic clove and come down on it with your hand, using enough force to flatten the clove and loosen the skin.
Remove the skin from the garlic clove and place it in a large sauté or frying pan with the olive oil. Over medium-low heat, bring the olive oil and garlic to a slow, steady sizzle (you don’t want to burn the garlic, just achieve a nice yellow color).
Add the mushrooms, crushed chile pepper (if using), and thyme to the pan.
Season with salt and pepper and stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate everything together. Cook the mushrooms over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes.*
Put the pasta into the boiling salted water and cook until al dente for dried pasta or until “punto giusto” for fresh pasta.
As the pasta is cooking, place the mushroom mixture over medium heat and add a large spoonful of the pasta cooking water to the pan.
Mix with your wooden spoon and let the mixture cook down into a saucy consistency (if it becomes too dry, add another spoonful of the cooking water; the goal here is to emulsify the mushroom mixture with the pasta water to create a sauce that’s not too watery and not too dry).
When the pasta is cooked to the correct point, use a pair of kitchen tongs to drain and remove it from the pot, and toss it directly into the pan with the mushroom mixture.
Over medium-low heat, stir the pasta into the mushroom mixture thoroughly, coating all of the noodles with the sauce (if the combination of pasta and mushrooms seems too dry, which is likely at this point as the pasta absorbs some of the sauce you created, add some more pasta cooking water until you achieve a balanced emulsification).
Remove the pan from the heat.
Add a drizzle of olive oil to the pan and mix one last time to incorporate.
Portion the pasta into warmed bowls and serve immediately.
Add cheese if so desired (but mushroom aficionados in Tuscany would not dare).

Notes

Initially, the mushrooms will soak up the oil, brown, and release the liquid within them. After a bit more time, they will begin to release the oil they previously soaked up. At that point, taste for seasoning and, if needed, add more salt or pepper.