Appetito is partnering with the Mentoris Project, a series of novels and biographies about the lives of great Italians and Italian Americans. The emphasis of our collaboration will be on subjects who have contributed to the culinary or lifestyle aspects that help define Italian culture. A great place to start is with Harvesting the American Dream, a 2017 novel by Karen Richardson based on the extraordinary life of Ernest Gallo, the “E” of E. & J. Gallo Winery
Most Americas of Gen X age or older know of Ernest & Julio Gallo. They were practically household names thanks to their ubiquitous jugs of wine with the E. & J. Gallo labels in homes and on shelves. What most probably don’t know is that today E. & J. Gallo, started by the two brothers in 1933, is the largest winery in the world, worth over $10 billion. Another unknown might be the fact that the still family-owned company has, beyond those under the “Gallo” umbrella, over 60 other brands that vary from canned sparkling wines to Brunello di Montalcino. The story behind this remarkable accomplishment is thoroughly detailed in Harvesting the American Dream.
The story, as thoroughly detailed in the novel, begins in the dirt of California’s Central Valley, where Ernest’s grandparents had immigrated from the region of Piemonte with a dream to make wine. This dream was inherited by Ernest and would become the driving force in a life often interrupted by itinerancy, secrets, violence, illness, and unimaginable tragedy, along with the national challenges of the early 20th century, including Prohibition, World War I, and the Great Depression. It is mostly, though, a story of one man’s grand vision, determination, ingenuity, and resilience in the face of tremendous adversity. This is an American Dream story writ large; that dream was to redeem his family’s name and put a bottle of wine on every American table.
A telling anecdote about the passion of Ernest Gallo was when he, as a very successful winemaker, was at his regular bistro in his hometown of Modesto and a traveling salesman type in an expensive suit not only ordered the last steak, which was Ernest’s regular dish, but had the nerve to wash it down with Coca Cola. Ernest was outraged and more determined than ever to educate Americans on the benefits and pleasure of pairing wine with food, just as he had been taught from his earliest days, when drops of wine were introduced by his Italian ancestors into the water the children of the family drank with meals.
This establishment of lifestyle is not a small matter among the many contributions of Italians to America. Being around the table with one’s family and friends is a quintessential aspect of wellness that can and should be enjoyed every day. This is the gift that Ernest Gallo gave to this country and what ensures his legacy as an Italian in America.
