You’re going to Venice, probably not for the first time, and all that talk about overtourism is starting to rattle you. You're craving an authentic place to visit, but you don’t want to fuss with renting a car. Of course, you will spend some time in Venice, but is there any town you can visit that offers a real slice of Veneto culture?
We don’t want to say it too loud, but the place is Bassano del Grappa. This town of about 40,000 residents feels a little like a village, but with a buzz you’d usually find in much larger cities. Just a tad over an hour northwest of Venice by direct train, this town ticks every box: mountain views, a river, a covered wooden bridge, friendly locals, an almost endless choice of bars—for coffee, wine, and cocktails—and some special places to eat. As a lucky resident of Bassano for decades, I feel I can call myself an expert, and here I will dig into some eateries that offer that local vibe.
The Bassanese are a picky lot. They want good food, lots of it, and don’t want to pay much. Restaurants have come and gone because the locals would rather spend double and travel an hour by car to dine than enjoy a meal in their own hometown. So, I have compiled a short list of the places the locals still frequent and feel like they have all to themselves. They are all within walking distance of the center of town, won’t cost much, and yes, you need to reserve in advance. I might get into trouble for telling you, but here goes:
Osteria alla Caneva - Probably the oldest osteria in town, you can have local wine and a meal from the short seasonal menu on the chalkboard. One standout dish is their ravioli with baccalà, and their oven-roasted guancetta (pork cheek) is drool-worthy. Daniele and Giulia will make you feel at home. In keeping with their ethos, the best way to contact them is by phone.
Via Giacomo Matteotti 34, tel. +39 335 5423560. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday evening and all day Tuesday.
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Al Caneseo da Amedeo – This tightly packed trattoria is always full; in fact, it’s the only place that has two seatings for dinner. Amedeo himself is in the dining room; the chef is from Abruzzo. Their specialty is arrosticini: skewers of lamb served in a pottery jug to keep them warm, but you won’t want to miss their spaghetti alla chitarra.
Reserve in advance by phone. Via Vendramini 20, tel. +39 0424 4228524. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday.
Osteria della Gerbera – This brand-new entry, hosted by Giulia out front and Nicola in the kitchen, is right on the covered wooden bridge. They offer Veneto specialties, especially seafood, without the hefty price tag. Try spaghetti con vongole (clams) or a fritto misto for an authentic treat.
Via Angarano 7. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Tuesday. Gerbera encourages walk-ins.
Nuovo Borgo – Just a ten minute walk from the iconic bridge, this trattoria is Italy on a plate. Andreone (big Andrea) will make you homemade pasta, grilled meats, and lovely cheese plates. Inside it’s cozy; the leafy garden is perfect for alfresco dining, and you’ll want to linger with a glass of excellent wine.
Via Margnan 7, tel. +39 0424 522155. Open for lunch and dinner; only lunch on Sunday. Closed Wednesday.
If you're thinking about having dinner here, think again. The last train to Venice leaves just after 9:00 p.m, and you won’t catch any locals dining before 8:00 p.m. Then again, you could always spend a night or two here, but beware: Bassano del Grappa is habit-forming.
And if anyone asks, you didn’t hear this from me!
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