At Roscioli’s New York outpost on a sweltering June night, my first bite of their Cacio e Pepe reset my standard for the Roman classic.
The restaurant has perfected its delivery of the dish over decades since its original location’s opening in the 1970s.
“It would be fun to know how many Cacio e Pepe we've made since Roscioli first opened, across the Forno, Salumeria, Caffè, Rimessa and now New York,” Mattia Moliterni, managing partner of Roscioli, tells Appetito.
In many ways Cacio e Pepe is representative of Roman cuisine with its focus on simple dishes that don’t lose their charm, according to Moliterni.
“Time and trends don't affect them, and we still enjoy eating them, just as our guests do,” he says. “I was born and raised in Rome, and I grew up eating Cacio e Pepe.”
For Moliterni, the dish belonged to the Italian city. It wasn’t widely known outside of Rome.
“That's why it's both surprising and rewarding to see something you've loved your whole life become appreciated by so many people around the world.”
As its appeal grows, Moliterni shared tips on how to make it and Roscioli’s recipe with Appetito.
Making Cacio e Pepe isn’t as simple as it may seem.
Salt—and not overdoing it with the salt—is the first thing to consider.
“Pecorino Romano is naturally quite salty, so if you over-salt the pasta water, the final dish can easily become unbalanced,” he says.
Using authentic Pecorino Romano is also important. “There are other similar cheeses, but they simply won't give you the same result. Finally, when you drain the pasta and begin emulsifying it with the cheese, it's safer to turn the heat off. If the pan is too hot, the Pecorino will become stringy instead of melting into the smooth, creamy sauce you're after.”
Roscioli’s Cacio e Pepe is set apart thanks to the ingredients used—the “foundation” of everything the restaurant offers, according to Moliterni.
Cacio e Pepe gives all ingredients included a chance to stand out and so using high quality ingredients makes a difference.
“I don't know if that makes our Cacio e Pepe any better than anyone else's, but we're convinced it's the right approach,” he says.
Appetito recommends visiting Roscioli in person in New York or in Rome to try the restaurant’s Cacio e Pepe—but if you’d like to try it at home, the full recipe can be found below.
4
servings15
minutes15
minutesIngredients
4 oz 4 fresh egg tagliolini
1/2 cup 1/2 Pecorino Romano DOP, finely grated
1/3 cup 1/3 2-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, finey chopped
Sarawak black pepper, to taste
Directions
- Bring a pot of water to a boil.
- Season lightly with salt, as the cheeses will provide plenty of salinity to the final dish.
- Meanwhile, toast the whole Sarawak black peppercorns in a dry pan over high heat.
- Once they begin to pop and release their aroma, remove them from the pan and coarsely grind them. Return the ground pepper to the pan.
- Add a ladle of pasta cooking water to the pan and bring it to a gentle simmer, allowing the pepper and water to form a fragrant broth.
- Cook the tagliolini until just shy of al dente.
- Transfer the pasta directly to the pan and toss for less than a minute, allowing it to finish cooking in the pepper-infused liquid and absorb its spicy, aromatic flavor.
- As soon as most of the liquid has been absorbed, remove the pan from the heat.
- Continue tossing the pasta briefly to lower its temperature slightly, then add the Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano Reggiano.
- Gradually add a small amount of pasta water while mixing vigorously, creating a smooth, creamy sauce free of lumps.
- Plate the pasta and finish with an extra sprinkle of grated cheese and freshly ground black pepper.
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