Move over, Stanley Tucci; I think I may have “found Italy” and La Dolce Vita right here in the United States.
I’m on the Pacific Surfliner, an Amtrak route that begins in San Diego and zips north along the Golden State’s sun-kissed shores. Peering out the window, my face feels warm from the golden sun, high above the blue shoreline on this perfect afternoon. My destination is Montage Laguna Beach, the very first location of the luxury “Montage” hotel chain.
From the Laguna Niguel station, I take a quick car to Laguna Beach, an incredibly cute beach town. Its main drag reflects an inherent locality, from hip coffeeshops like Jeddidah to staples like the circa-1947, old-school tiki bar, Royal Hawaiian. Don’t fret: there are also plenty of spots for Italian eats, from gelato (Gelato Paradiso and Dolce Gelato) to the homemade pasta favorite, Piatti.
As I pull up to the Montage, I’m amazed by its immense beauty and size. I’m reminded of extravagant hotels in Italy, like Capri’s iconic Caesar Augustus and Ravello’s idyllic Palazzo Avino, both of which share the Montage’s Italian aesthetic. Much like the Augustus and the Avino, the Montage is built on a cliff. Streetside, the hotel is level. An elevator down a couple of floors opens to an oceanfront view.
Much like the Amalfi Coast’s famed water, which is equal parts sparkling and brilliantly blue, Laguna’s waves mimic those qualities in a way that stands out along the Southern California coast. An added bonus is that there’s actually ample beach in Laguna, as opposed to the Amalfi Coast or Capri, where the sands are typically MIA and cliffs take their place.
Checking in, the Montage team kindly had a Limoncello Spritz waiting for me, which they dub Serenitá di Limone, featuring their house-made limoncello. Other in-house creations include the incredible bread and the chocolate bonbons put on pillows each night. (Bonus: The Montage exclusively revealed the cocktail recipe for Serenitá di Limone, shared below.)
After walking around the property, I relax at one of the multiple pools, which shimmer in the midday sun, and slurp down a chilled Aperol Spritz. Two palm trees tower over the sprawling complex: they’re named Lucy and Desi, after the iconic couple who filmed the Vincente Minnelli-directed movie The Long, Long Trailer in the early ‘50s on this very land back when it was an oceanfront RV park.
At the cliff’s edge, there’s a paved path teeming with people making their way north and south: joggers, families, and a bevy of surfers armed with their trusty boards. On this particular afternoon, the waves are absolutely ferocious, a result of the La Niña weather pattern in the Pacific.
My first dinner is at the Montage’s Mosaic Bar and Grill. The food is best described as seaside California with pops of warm Italian comfort. I’m referring to the luscious, whipped ricotta (served with sundried tomatoes and an olive confit), ricotta gnocchi (with burrata and balsamic) and a ricotta Bolognese topped with stracciatella and house made rosemary breadcrumbs. I also dive into two plump, melt-in-your-mouth Hokkaido scallops, served with preserved lemon. You can taste the sea and see it as well thanks to the eatery’s spectacular view.
The other crown dining jewel at the Montage is Studio Mediterranean, their relatively new restaurant, where I spend my second evening. Yes, as expected, the space has breathtaking views of the sea; even better is what’s placed on your table from a menu of Mediterranean fare: the Hokkaido scallops reappear, this time served crudo-style; there are glorious grilled dates, a California specialty, served with goat cheese and pistachio (for some Grecian flair). Another showstopper is a whole branzino baked in a coffee-salt crust. I know it sounds wild, but it’s also wildly good.
I sip a Negroni and walk to Studio’s expansive patio, crowded with revelers. It’s around 6:30pm, and the sun is going down. The last time I experienced such a jaw-dropping sunset, where people literally put their forks down and ran to the nearest vista, was in Capri.
By now it’s time to call it like it is: La Dolce California.
Make the Montage Laguna Beach’s sweet and airy Serenitá di Limone using the recipe below.
Ingredients:
2 oz. limoncello
¾ oz. falernum
¾ oz. vermouth
1 chamomile tea bag
Tonic, to top
Ice
Directions:
Combine limoncello, falernum and vermouth in a large spritz glass.
Add Chamomile bag to infuse.
Add ice and top with tonic.
Garnish with a lemon peel.
Salute! You found Italy in California.
