Beyond art and monuments are the joys of daily life in Florence. There’s nothing better than meeting up with friends for a glass of wine or popping into an enoteca (wine bar) to chat with the regulars. Since drinking wine without eating would be uncivilized, there’s also great food at most enoteche. Each enoteca has its own unique flavor and style, so be sure to try several for a full Florentine experience.
Here are five of my favorites among the many wonderful wine bars of Florence.
Casa del Vino (Via dell' Ariento, 16r Florence)
Hidden behind the leather stalls in San Lorenzo, Casa del Vino dates back to 1890 and is still run by the Migliorini family, maintaining a tradition of high quality foods, while evolving their bottles to include organic and biodynamic wines. Checkered marble floors invite you into the narrow shop, which is lined with spectacular wooden shelves and mirrors, making the space feel larger. Pop in mid morning for a crostino toscano, or bravely join the lunch crowd for a panino served on breads from across the street from Forno Canapa di Bruschi Ivana.
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli (Piazza Dell'Olio 15 - 50123 Florence)
Just steps from the Duomo is this historic family owned enoteca with a tiny upstairs wine bar and a large dining area hidden below. Sit outside on stools to chat with friends and have a glass, or tuck in downstairs and enjoy classic Tuscan antipasti or a hearty plate of pasta or polenta. This place is a lifesaver if you want a meal between 3pm and 7pm, when Italian restaurants notoriously close between lunch and dinner services. Owner Rossano is always ready with a joke, and his Florentine humor is a large part of this place’s flavor.
Also near the Duomo, this epic enoteca dates back to 1952. Massimo and Antonella run the show, juggling a gourmet shop, vast wine cellar, all sorts of spirits and amari, and an elegant wine bar with artfully arranged taglieri. Just one street south of the Duomo, this place is worth a visit to admire the selection of candies and rare bottles, or to rest your legs and have a glass of wine.
Across the Ponte Vecchio, you’ll find another of Florence’s eno-gems. Le Volpi e L’uva is a one-of-a kind Florentine enoteca. An excellent choice of wines by the glass compliments the highest quality cheeses and salumi. Delicious crostini become a light meal or a hearty antipasto. Seating is limited inside and out, so you should feel quite proud of yourself if you snag a spot here.
Just across from Pitti Palace, this enoteca is a bit more refined than the average wine bar yet without feeling stuffy. The owners and staff are all knowledgeable and professional, making it a nice place to relax and have a great experience. Be sure to reserve ahead since seating and space are limited.
Tip 1: The owners of Pitti Gola have opened a second enoteca northeast of the Duomo called Enoteca De'Giusti, offering the same great service and quality in an area that was once a no-man’s land for those seeking a relaxing enoteca.
Tip 2: Just want a quick glass and don’t mind standing? Drop by historic Fratelli Zanobini in San Lorenzo (Via S. Antonino 47R). Here you’ll get plenty of local flavor, where cousins Mario and Simone run the shop started by their fathers, who were brothers (fratelli). The family produces Chianti wines and extra virgin olive oil which they sell in addition to a nice selection of Italian wines. Prices are quite reasonable by the glass and the bottle.
