For those who know about it or have visited in the past, Newport evokes sailing races and Gilded-era mansions, as well as seafood shacks, but probably not much more. Yet this seaside Rhode Island resort is a surprisingly dynamic destination, with James Beard-nominated restaurants, upscale hotels, charming beaches, excellent museums, and an enticing selection of outdoor activities.
How does a city with only 25,000 year-round residents punch above its weight? It certainly helps that in peak months, Newport’s population swells to over 100,000 thanks to vacation home owners and of course tourists—an estimated four million annually. The influx of visitors supports a growing community of small businesses, as well as the famed tourism magnets such as the “cottages”—mansions built along cliffs overlooking the bays surrounding Aquidneck Island, which is home to Newport, Middletown, and Portsmouth.
I visited for the first time in late summer 2024, a few weeks past peak season, but when Newport was still busy enough to require making reservations at top restaurants. Based on my experiences, I’ve created an ideal 3-day itinerary for a trip to Newport, plenty of time to allow you to enjoy this picturesque spot in spring and fall; I’d suggest adding a few days if you plan a summer visit, to allow time for beach trips and even day excursions to nearby attractions such as Block Island.
Note: This is the first Appetito Travels column. We will feature Italian destinations and North American cities with noteworthy Italian restaurants, with multi-day suggested itineraries aimed at providing memorable experiences.
DAY 1: Cliff Walk, Mansions, and Dinner at “Freestyle Italian” restaurant Giusto
When my family and I drove into Newport, our Airbnb check-in time was a few hours off so we parked near an entrance to the Cliff Walk not far from the Breakers, a mansion built in the late 19th century as a summer “cottage” for Cornelius Vanderbilt II. The Cliff Walk is a 3.5-mile path—some of it paved, some on dirt, and parts that require climbing briefly on rocks—that is a great place to get a sense of Newport. The views are stunning, whether facing the beaches and bays below or turning around to see the manicured great lawns leading up to the mansions.
There are 11 historic homes and gardens open for visits throughout the year via Newport Mansions, some with dining options and other activities. (Appetito affiliate partner Viator offers a guided trolley tour of the mansions that includes admission to the Breakers.) These estates and others were constructed as summer getaways for wealthy East Coast families around the turn of the 20th Century. Many have become private residences or are now part of Salve Regina University, though the Breakers and others along Bellevue Avenue welcome visitors.
After seeing some of Newport’s main attractions, it’s time to visit another. The marina is lined with shops and places to eat, including one of the city’s top-rated restaurants: Giusto. Chef Kevin O’Donnell opened this bustling contemporary spot in 2021 after moving back to his home state following an early career honing his kitchen skills in Italy and then at Del Posto in Manhattan under Mark Ladner. O’Donnell, who is Italian-American on his mother’s side, opened Giusto as a stand-alone restaurant in a waterfront development featuring the boutique Hammetts Hotel.
I first came across O’Donnell when assigning a story about Giusto that appeared on the website for La Cucina Italiana. In it, he explained the restaurant’s tagline, “Freestyle Italian,” as allowing him to incorporate New England coastal influences into his version of Italian cuisine, and to explore Italy’s regional dishes when he has access to proper seasonal ingredients. I also interviewed O’Donnell for Appetito last year, when he opened the combination restaurant and takeaway pizzeria Mother a half-mile down the marina from Giusto.
My family and I were seated on Giusto’s sprawling patio overlooking Newport Harbor. We tried a few of the signature snacks and plates as we watched the sun set over the sailboat masts. Rhode Island’s official appetizer — as the world learned during the 2020 Democratic Presidential Convention roll call — is fried calamari, and O’Donnell uses the dish as a calling card for his concept. Rather than the familiar golden rings dipped into marinara sauce, Giusto presents the calamari blackened with squid ink and laced with capers and cherry peppers. The menu’s “Scotch meatball”—a fried meatball stuffed with soft-boiled egg, tomato, and salumi, underscores the freestyle cooking. Similarly, pastas showcase global flavor mash-ups; we loved the Street Corn Ravioli, which blends a Mexican street food staple with stuffed pasta. Mains also impressed, especially pork shoulder with nectarines, summer beans, and Calabrian chili.
Newport features more traditionally-minded Italian and Italian-American restaurants, including the bistro-like Bar ‘Cino, upscale Mamma Luisa, and crowd-pleasing New England mini-chain Pasta Beach, but Giusto is the place to go for exceptional creative cooking and waterfront dining.
DAY 2: Coffee, Museums and Beaches, Seafood Shacks, Harbor Cruise, Sunset Drinks
The closest business to our Airbnb was one of the locations of Nitro Bar, which has a strong local following and features clever breakfast items such as a bagel served with cacio e pepe cream cheese. Cold brew enthusiasts (such as myself) will appreciate their nitro offerings. Another place with multiple area cafés that I would recommend is Empire Tea & Coffee—there’s one in the strip mall across from the International Tennis Hall of Fame.
Depending on the weather, there are two strong options for Day 2 of your visit. In summer, take advantage of the Newport area’s public beaches. The most central is Easton’s (First) Beach, which features a snack bar, chair and equipment rentals, and a wide, sandy beach that’s great for families. Further down the same coastline is Second Beach in Middletown, which is across the street from one of the city’s best-loved seafood spots (more on that in a moment). Other beaches of note include Gooseberry Beach, a small, public-private beach with pricier parking but a secluded location with a view of several mansions. Fort Adams State Park, home to the famed Newport Folk Festival and Newport Jazz Festival, both held annually in late July or early August, also features a popular beach.
For non-beachgoers or if weather doesn’t permit, I’d recommend spending at least part of a day at Newport’s small but well-curated museums. The Tennis Hall of Fame, located in the historic former home of the Newport Casino, features exhibits about the sport, as well as 13 outdoor grass tennis courts open to the public for play (for a fee). It’s also home to the Hall of Fame Open (next scheduled for July 6-13, 2025) , featuring top men’s and women’s players from around the world. A short walk from the Tennis Hall is the Newport Art Museum, with rotating exhibits such as “Christo and Jean-Claude: Ocean Front 50 Years Later,” on view until December 29, 2024, and detailing the famed couple’s 1974 work in Newport. During my stay, I visited the historic Redwood Library, next to the art museum, which was hosting “Slim Aarons: Newport Days,” a collection of photographs by the lensman who captured “attractive people in attractive places doing attractive things.” It’s on view until December 15, 2024, and offers an insider’s look at the glamour of mid-century Newport.
Any stay in Newport wouldn’t be complete without a stop for lobster rolls and/or fried clams at one of the city’s beloved seafood shacks. Near the beach in Middletown is the flagship Flo’s Clam Shack, which has existed since the 1930s and has been revived multiple times after hurricanes wiped out several locations. It features a menu with all of the seafood shack classics as well as kid-friendly fare such as burgers and chicken fingers, but is known for its hush puppy-esque clam cakes—which were the best thing I tasted there during my visit. Along the wharf, Newport Lobster Shack is highly rated for its lobster roll, clams, crabs, and other locally sourced seafood.
In late afternoon or early evening, try to experience the water from on board a boat or on land. For the former, I’d recommend taking one of the ferries that leave for the wharf, or for a pricier and more personalized experience, charter a boat. We splurged on a private harbor tour from Newport Classic Yacht Company, which allowed us to bring our dog and featured a friendly 2-person crew aboard a custom 1928 motor yacht. Bring swimming gear to dive off and go for a swim in the harbor or stay dry while enjoying Prosecco. Landlubbers can opt for a sunset drink overlooking the sea on the lawn at Castle Hill Inn, a Relais & Chateaux property on a 40-acre estate.
For a casual dinner one night, we dined outside at Yagi Noodles, a “next-level ramen” spot by chef Basil Yu, who earned a James Beard semifinalist nod in 2024 for his inventive bowls and baos. Try a lobster bao bun or a bowl of laksa lobster, a Singaporean-inspired ramen dish with Maine lobster, paired with a Rhode Island craft beer.
For dessert, I highly recommend stopping for ice cream at Get The Scoop, a single-location shop with housemade ice creams that rival the best I’ve had.
DAY 3: Pizza, Shopping, and a Scenic Drive
It’s been a whirlwind, but before you leave Newport, there are a few more things to do and see. For lunch, try Mother Pizzeria’s delicious pies. O’Donnell opened the restaurant with hospitality vet Lauren Schaefer and former Giusto chef Kyle Stamps as partners, and the trio have created a light-filled space with an open kitchen and patio for dine-in customers. There are also picnic tables in an adjacent outdoor space for those who want a quick takeaway slice.
I’d suggest staying for a sit-down meal at Mother, as Stamps, who serves as executive chef, is fermenting dough for days and topping his pizza with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. The dine-in menu also features salads, snacks, and house-made gelato, as well as a smart beverage program with craft cocktails, low-intervention wines, and regional beers.
From there, it’s a short walk to dozens of shops—including the Shops at Long Wharf, adjacent to Mother—from national chains to local boutiques. Take a stroll and pick up souvenirs before taking a final look around the picturesque area with a 10-mile scenic journey on Ocean Drive. Be forewarned: you’ll be tempted to stop to explore the beaches and parks that appear like mirages as you maneuver along this winding waterfront roadway.
Where to Stay
My family and I enjoyed our cottage-like Airbnb within walking distance of restaurants and bars frequented by locals, and a short stroll to the marina and other attractions. But for those who prefer to be located more centrally in a hotel, or at one of the classic resorts, Newport has many options.
There’s the Hammetts Hotel mentioned earlier, next to Giusto. Another luxury boutique stay is The Brenton Hotel, which opened in 2020 with 57 rooms and a great waterfront location. Also downtown is The Vanderbilt Hotel, an Auberge Resort property that was once the home of Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt. Another Gilded Age historic building is now Hotel Viking, which has a restaurant, rooftop bar, and a spa. And then there’s the classic Newport Harbor Island Resort, which occupies Goat Island but is still just a short walk to downtown.
When to Go
I’m a newcomer to this famed summer resort, and I’d argue that despite the crowds, this is the best season to visit. How many walkable small cities offer desirable beaches for swimming and lounging along with big-city amenities like historic museums, nationally recognized restaurants, and design and clothing boutiques? Not many. Summer is also when Newport hosts major events such as the above-mentioned folk and jazz festivals and tennis tournament, as well as sailing races, boat shows, and more.
Yet I see why other travel guides to Newport suggest spring or fall as preferred times to visit. When the flowers bloom in April and when the leaves change in fall, Newport no doubt displays a different sort of magic that will likely make you want to come back for more.
