For more than twenty years, Asti Trattoria has been a Hyde Park fixture, where neighbors gather over handmade pasta and a glass of wine with friends. But in 2021, co-owners Chris Moore and Chef Bryan Beneke took over the restaurant, bringing fresh energy to a place already deeply rooted in the community. Chef de Cuisine Evan Van Nort now leads in the kitchen alongside Chef Bryan, helping shape the menu and daily rhythm of the restaurant.
Appetito talked with Chef Bryan about Asti’s past and present, the values that guide it, and what it means to be a true neighborhood restaurant in Austin today. His words reflect both his own perspective and the shared vision he carries with Chris and Evan.
Taking Over a Community Classic
Asti Trattoria has been part of the Hyde Park neighborhood for over two decades. How long have you owned the restaurant, and what is your “why” behind taking it over?
We've owned Asti since 2021, though it’s been a beloved part of Hyde Park for much longer. Our “why” is simple - we believe in neighborhood restaurants that are woven into the daily life of a community. When the opportunity arose, I felt a responsibility to protect what Asti meant to so many people, while also bringing my own passion for Italian cooking and hospitality into its next chapter.
How has the restaurant evolved since you became owner? Have the clientele or menu preferences shifted over time?
We’ve kept the heart of Asti the same—familiar favorites, genuine hospitality—but we’ve also added new seasonal dishes, expanded our wine program, and deepened relationships with local purveyors. Austin’s dining scene has grown rapidly, and our guests are more adventurous than ever, so we’ve been able to introduce new regional Italian dishes alongside the classics people love.
The Spirit of a Neighborhood Restaurant
What does "neighborhood restaurant" mean to you, and how do you try to maintain that feeling in a changing Austin?
To me, a neighborhood restaurant is a place where you’re greeted by name, your favorite table is remembered, and you feel comfortable, whether you’re in jeans or dressed for a celebration. In a city that’s constantly changing, we focus on consistency, warmth, and making every guest feel like they belong here.
Where does the name 'Asti' come from, and what does it represent in the context of the restaurant?
The name "Asti" has a truly charming backstory. The previous owners, Emmett and Lisa Fox, were two young chefs in love on a trip through Italy. While walking through the vineyards of Barolo, Emmett bent down and fashioned a ring from the grapevines, and in that moment, he proposed to Lisa. The two chefs later decided to open a restaurant and originally planned to name it "Barolo" after the town where they got engaged. However, after realizing how many other restaurants shared the same name, they decided to choose the next town over and Asti was born.
Asti has a reputation for consistency and warmth. What values or philosophies guide your approach to hospitality?
Our philosophy is simple: treat every guest like they’re coming into your home. That means genuine kindness, attentiveness without pretension, and a focus on making people feel cared for. Consistency isn’t just about food, it’s about making sure the feeling you leave with is the same every time you visit.
Can you share a memory or story that captures what Asti means to the community?
One evening, a longtime guest brought her children and grandchildren for dinner. She told me her parents had celebrated their anniversaries here, she had come for countless birthdays, and now her grandkids were tasting our pasta for the first time. That moment showed me that Asti isn’t just part of the neighborhood, it’s part of people’s family histories.
Balancing Tradition and Creativity
Italian food can be deeply regional. How do you decide which traditions to honor or reinterpret on the menu?
I start with respect for the origin of each dish. If a recipe has centuries of history behind it, I want to preserve its essence. From there, I look for ways to incorporate seasonal Texas ingredients or subtle updates that make sense in our kitchen and for our guests. The goal is always to enhance, never to overshadow.
How do you source ingredients, especially when recreating dishes that depend on Italian seasonality?
We import essential items like Parmigiano Reggiano, true Velasoro tomatoes,. But for produce and proteins, we work closely with local farms and ranches to find the freshest seasonal offerings. It’s about honoring Italian techniques while celebrating what grows beautifully here in Texas.
What are some of your proudest moments since taking over Asti?
Keeping the community connection alive during a time of so much change has been my greatest pride. I’m also proud of Chris expanding our wine list to include lesser-known Italian varietals, and of our team for embracing a more seasonal, ingredient-driven menu without losing sight of our beloved staples.
The Food at the Center
How would you describe your approach to Italian cooking at Asti? Do you lean traditional, modern, or a blend of both?
It’s a blend. I deeply respect traditional Italian recipes and techniques, but I’m not afraid to bring in modern touches if they enhance the dish. My goal is for our food to feel timeless—rooted in tradition but vibrant and relevant today.
What’s one dish on the menu that you feel best represents your cooking philosophy—and why?
Our Lasagna Rotolo is the perfect example. Instead of the traditional layered lasagna, we roll fresh pasta sheets around a rich Beef and Pork Bolognese sauce, four cheeses blend, then bake it so every slice has that perfect balance of pasta, filling, and sauce. It’s rooted in Italian tradition but presented in a way that feels fresh and a little unexpected. The flavors are familiar and comforting, yet the format makes it special, a reflection of how I like to honor the classics while bringing something new to the table.
Can you walk us through a seasonal dish you’re especially proud of and what makes it work?
In late summer, we serve a peach and burrata salad with basil, prosciutto, and a drizzle of aged balsamic. The sweetness of Hill Country peaches, the creaminess of the burrata, and the salty richness of prosciutto create this perfect balance of flavors. It’s simple but unforgettable.
The Hyde Park Connection
What do you enjoy most about cooking in a neighborhood setting like Hyde Park versus a more downtown or trendy location?
Cooking in Hyde Park allows for real relationships. We’re not just serving food; we’re part of people’s weekly routines, their celebrations, even their quiet Tuesday nights. There’s a comfort and authenticity in that dynamic that you can’t always find in more transient, trend driven areas.
Asti has always been about more than food. Under the guidance of Bryan, Chris, and Evan, it remains a place where tradition and community meet, and where the story of a neighborhood restaurant continues to unfold in Hyde Park. Visit their website or Instagram for more details.
