Adapted from Rome: A Culinary History, Cookbook, and Field Guide to the Flavors that Built a City
It’s a myth that Romans don’t love rules—they’re obsessed with them, at least when it comes to food. Case in point: giovedì gnocchi. Thursday is gnocchi day, and everyone knows it. But not all gnocchi are created equal. These days, gnocchi di patate are often dense, gummy, and sticky, the result of industrial production and shortcuts. Even small neighborhood pastifici tend to rely on dehydrated potato flakes and mediocre flour, which produce a pasty texture and rob gnocchi of their signature lightness. I’ll never forget having to cancel a TV shoot at a pastificio in Testaccio when we turned up to film their gnocchi production, only to find they had poured a massive bag of potato flakes into the mixer with hot water. Not exactly what the crew and I had in mind.
If, like me, you’re after soft, pillowy dumplings that practically dissolve on your tongue, you’re going to have to make them yourself. Roman lore says the secret to ethereal gnocchi lies in using dry, starchy potatoes grown at high altitudes, ideally from Avezzano, in Abruzzo’s Marsica plateau. If those aren’t available, seek out old, yellow-fleshed potatoes with low moisture content and dense texture. And whatever you do, skip the food processor. A ricer keeps the potatoes fluffy and helps preserve that delicate, tender bite that defines good gnocchi.
Once you’ve nailed the texture, don’t drown them in sauce. A gentle coating is all they need—try amatriciana, the rich tomato sauce from involtini, ragù (see recipe here), or oxtail sauce.
Feeling extravagant? Fry the gnocchi until golden and crisp, then serve them over a pool of cacio e pepe sauce.
Fun fact: Gnocca is roman slang for a hot chick and her lady parts!
Fresh Gnocchi di Patate
4
servings30
minutesAdapted from Rome: A Culinary History, Cookbook, and Field Guide to the Flavors that Built a City by Katie Parla
Ingredients
1 lb. 1 dry, floury potatoes, such as russets
3/4 cup 3/4 all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 tsp. 1 sea salt
Directions
- Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover them with cold water.
- Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, then cook until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 40 minutes.
- Drain and set aside to cool slightly.
- Peel the potatoes, pass them through a ricer onto a dry work surface, and allow them to cool further, letting the escaping steam dry them out a bit more.
- Sprinkle the flour and salt evenly over the potatoes.
- Gently mix by hand, gradually incorporating the flour until a dough forms.
- Knead gently, just until the dough comes together.
- Set the dough aside to rest at room temperature, covered, for about 30 minutes.
- On a lightly floured surface, shape a fistful of dough into a rope about 1 inch in diameter. Using a knife, cut the rope crosswise into 3⁄4-inch pieces.
- Set the gnocchi aside on a lightly floured surface, spacing them apart to prevent sticking. Repeat with the remaining dough.
- Let them dry out slightly, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes before cooking.
- It's best to cook gnocchi the day they are made, rather than to store them in the refrigerator. to freeze, lay the gnocchi on a baking sheet in a single layer.
- Once solid, transfer to a freezer bag and store up to 1 month.
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