Rome is impossible not to love. With every trip, something new is discovered and the familiar captivates you as though encountering it for the first time. Rome is a feeling. It stays with you long after you’ve parted, not just as a memory of monuments visited or meals eaten, but as a lasting fondness for the city. Here, the past still lives in the present, where history is not preserved in a museum but woven into everyday life, and tradition embraces all who experience it.
And yet, for those willing to look beyond these grand cities we revere — Rome, Florence, Venice — Italy rewards them with the quiet luxury of slowing down. On a recent trip, as the lights of Rome traffic faded in the distance, the rolling hills of Umbria began to unfold ahead, lined with pine and cypress trees and revealing a region of Italy just as compelling. This is the route into the Green Heart of Italy, as Umbria is known, a journey made possible by Italy Charme, a boutique luxury tour company specializing in one-of-a-kind, curated journeys through the country of la dolce vita.
Norcia arrives first, a town shaped by spirituality, well-being and culinary traditions. Known as the birthplace of Saint Benedict, father of Europe, its off-the-beaten-path-location affords it an air of tranquility surrounded by dense forest trees at the foot of the Monti Sibillini Mountains. A town of 5000 inhabitants, food is not an industry in this part of Umbria — it is part of its DNA. The town is famously defined by norcineria, the centuries-old practice of curing pork, and seventeen of them can be found here, an impressive number given the size of the population.
At the heart of Norcia is the Bianconi family, leaders in hospitality since 1850. Their Palazzo Seneca, dating to the 16th century, has been meticulously restored, and you’re made to feel like friends rather than hotel guests. This family run Relais & Chateaux has 24 rooms, a library with historic books, a fireplace room, and a wellness spa.
Their onsite restaurant, Vespasia, holds both a Michelin Star for the quality of its cuisine and a Michelin Green Star for its commitment to sustainable gastronomy. Local ingredients reign supreme. Nero di Norcia, the region’s prized black truffle, share a menu with Castellucio Lentils, flavorful and tiny lentils from the Castellucio plains, as well as Pecorino and cured meats from their beloved norcinerie. Fragrant herbs used in the dishes are a gift of the Palazzo’s own garden and the chefs at the heart of house create dishes inspired by their own experiences.
On a recent visit, dinner began with an amuse-bouche in the shape of a bright, green olive served on a marble square with fresh olive leaves. Biting into it revealed a creamy olive mousse center with a crunchy exterior, a satisfying preview of what was to come. A luscious soup of Norcia's famed lentils under a bed of pecorino followed before moving to a local saffron-infused risotto finished with crispy artichokes. A striking beetroot Wellington arrived next, wrapped in buttery puff pastry and paired with Vernaccia di Cannara sauce and foraged mountain herbs, showcasing the restaurant’s embrace of locally sourced ingredients. Dessert was a silky chocolate mousse accented with extra virgin olive oil from nearby Frantoio Decimi, balanced by pear and ginger sorbet. The meal ended with “Cuddles,” the restaurant's affectionate name for its selection of miniature pastries, reflecting the warmth and hospitality that define a stay at this family-run Palazzo.
Next, Italy Charme led us into the saffron fields of Umbria to the family-run farm of Zafferano e Dintorni. Marta, a member of the family, took us “grocery shopping” through the farm where wild asparagus, artichokes, and seasonal herbs were the foundation of our lunch later that day. We stopped at the saffron fields, where fertile soil, clean mountain air, sunshine and patience combine to bloom these fall flowers that are harvested by hand. They yield only three red stigmas per flower that must be plucked and dried within hours of harvesting to preserve its flavor and aroma. Saffron, the world's most expensive spice, rewards a year's worth of labor from taking care of the land with only a few weeks of harvest, leaving much of its success in the hands of nature. Zafferano e Dintorni is also an agriturismo where travelers can linger and experience Umbrian farm life while exploring the surrounding countryside.
From Norcia, the trip continues into Le Marche, where Castello di Luco rises above the hills. An 11th-century strategic stronghold, it has welcomed soldiers, noble families, and travelers for centuries, and as you enter, it's impossible not to wonder how many lives and stories have passed through these walls. Today, Castello di Luco is a historic hotel run by the Amici family, to whom it has belonged for over 200 years. It became part of the family when Maria Ciucci, the last member of the Ciucci family to inherit the estate, married Giuseppe Amici in the early 1800s.
Today, a stay at Castello di Luco includes a personal tour of the property with Francesco Amici, a descendant of the family who owns and operates the castle. During our visit, he shared generations of family records, stories, and historical documents, bringing the castle's past vividly to life and sharing a little part of who he is. His sister Laura runs the onsite restaurant and prepared delicious meals with regional specialties and ingredients. The castle features nine guest rooms, no two alike, each named after a woman in the Amici family. It is a thoughtful detail that reflects the sense of convivialità that permeates the castle.
A short drive away, the city of Ascoli Piceno offers another glimpse into the region's rich culinary culture at Caffe’ Meletti. Housed beneath the arcades of Piazza del Popolo, this historic cafe has been welcoming locals and travelers since 1907, serving its signature Anisetta Meletti liqueur as well as pastries infused with it in a setting that has changed little over the past century.
Another experience offered through Italy Charme is truffle hunting with Ramuse, where guests head into the woods alongside a guide and trained dogs in search of Umbrian truffles. As the dogs work their way through the forest floor, visitors learn about the seasonal nature of truffles, and later can share a meal prepared with the truffles.
Italy Charme acts as a thread between these experiences, facilitating connecting travelers with the country's people, traditions and places in meaningful ways. Rather than focusing only on Italy's iconic landmarks, its curated itineraries include family-run farms, historic castles, and immersive cultural experiences, allowing guests to discover the stories and communities in a more intimate level. Owned by Moreno Moretti, a native of the Le Marche region of Italy, he has spent years cultivating personal relationships with families throughout Italy, thus being able to offer curated access to local life.
Beyond the mesmerizing cities of Rome, Florence and Venice lies another Italy, one experienced through conversations around family tables, centuries-old castles, walks through saffron fields, and meals prepared from just-harvested ingredients. Through Italy Charme, travelers aren't simply shown these places; they're welcomed into them, leaving with a deeper understanding of the people and traditions at the heart of Italy.
