In the two and a half years that I've lived in Rome, I’ve primarily been situated in and around the neighborhood of Monteverde. At first, it was solely out of necessity since it was close to my university, but when my program finished and my lease ran out, I made the decision to stay.
This “green mountain” looms just above the bustling neighborhood of Trastevere, where international students are abundant and lost tourists wander about in swarms. Don’t get me wrong, it’s chaotic and fun in so many ways. But what many people don't realize is that if they just walk 15 minutes uphill, they can be introduced to this much calmer, more local Rome.
Packed with unassuming bars and family-owned businesses, this is a neighborhood where everyone seems to know each other. People greet each other, even strangers, on the street - a social interaction I had become unaccustomed to after leaving the American Midwest.
Alongside the sprawling Villa Pamphili and statue-dotted Villa Sciarra - both of which are perfect for an afternoon of sun - the neighborhood is filled with a plethora of shops, cafés and delicious restaurants. Here are a few of my favorites:
Grani Farine e Cafe: A tiny cafe with house-made pastries, lunch and brunch options, and specialty coffee. Don’t bother asking for sugar - they will not give it to you, and after a sip, you won’t want it anyway.
Order your favorite caffeinated beverage and maybe a savory croissant - you won't find much better in Rome. While you’re there, be sure to take a moment to appreciate the ceramic dishware. They work with an independent artist outside of Rome and it really does make the experience feel so cozy.
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Foodie Greenlab: There are no seats here, but it is my favorite spot when I want something Italian-ish but full of vegetables. Grab a mixed plate (I love their veg au gratin and their radicchio) and go picnic in the park. Vegan and vegetarian options are available, and they also carry a small selection of pantry items and beverages to take along.
Fratelli Santi Mauro & Zeno: This is one of the most perfect neighborhood delis I’ve come across. Meats and cheeses are sold by weight, or you can grab a quick €5 panini, which is perfect for a quick bite. None of the paninis are overly complicated and they really let the high-quality ingredients shine (I love the one with pesto and salami). Located at Via Giacinto Carini, 27, 00152 Roma.
Aqla: A casual, Middle Eastern restaurant with food to cure both your physical and emotional hangovers, Aqla is family-owned, full of regulars, and staffed by one of the kindest women I’ve met. Order one of the burgers loaded with fries and sauce, or the rice plate with spiced meat. Either will fix the day.
Santa Maria Bar & Bistro: The name alone earns itself a spot, but in all seriousness, this is a perfect place to either start or end your evening. A contained, but well-crafted wine list, classic cocktails and shareable plates make it just as good for a pre-dinner drink as it does a gentle landing pad for when you’re ready to wind down. The vibe inside is funky and eclectic, but they have outside seating for when you want to take advantage of the good weather.
Barro: Natural wines and small plates work equally well for a date or a solo evening. Order a bottle of funky natural wine and some small plates with marinated fish, creamy butter, and bread - enough for dinner if you want, or just a start before pivoting into one of Monteverde’s more traditional restaurants. Either option is equally valid.
Osteria Palmira: If you want consistently good Roman food and kind service, come here. I tried it for the first time in a post-apartment move haze, dining solo and barely coherent. They kept gently checking in on me, which tells you everything you need to know about the place. Order a bottle of sparkling wine, carbonara and some sauteed runner beans. And, if you find yourself in Prati, be sure to check out their other location.
La Fata Turchina: Every meal here is an adventure. Compact and full of eclectic artwork, books, and even decorative bras (yes, you read that right), you’re welcomed like you’ve been coming for years. Expect generous portions of Italian classics, lingering conversations with neighboring tables, and some of the best hospitality Rome can offer. Located at Via Ferdinando Verospi, 1A, 00151 Roma.
Osteria Poerio: Perhaps a bit more upscale than others on my list, this is a local establishment I ventured to for my birthday last year (a solo dinner, as I like it to be). It’s one of the few places that does both meat and fish well. I still think about the garlicky pasta that came with a mini pitcher of fish sauce.
Friccico: Run by a sweet couple, Serena and Simone, this intimate, French-inspired bistro specializes in game meats (I’m talking about a life-changing duck) and artisanal pastas. The space is warm and neighborhoody, and the food could confidently hold its own in a white tablecloth dining room. Quietly some of the best cooking I’d had in ages.
La Gourmandaise: A goat milk gelateria that has blown me away every time. The goat’s milk adds a bit of tang and freshness to the gelato while still maintaining a rich and creamy texture. I’m a bit of a gelato fanatic, and I can honestly say that this is my favorite gelateria in Rome. Go here.
Otaleg: Made without additives or unnecessary sugars, Otaleg is the epitome of “less is more.” They focus on seasonal ingredients and are also eco-conscious, serving everything in compostable cups (or waffle cones). They have a location in Trastevere, too, so be sure to check it out.
Whether you come for the view from the Gianicolo or simply just to escape the crowds of Trastevere, Monteverde offers a quieter, more lived-in part of Rome. My lease runs out in July. Theoretically, it’s the kind of moment that invites some sort of geographic change - but to be honest, I’m having a hard time imagining saying goodbye.
