There’s a magical seaside haven that hugs the Italian coast, and it’s not Amalfi. Turns out, there’s an even more dreamy, luxurious, and aesthetic destination with less lines and less steps, and it’s not the Cinque Terre. The region of Liguria is home to Italy’s understated Italian Riviera.
Nestled in the northwest corner along the Ligurian Sea, tiny seaside towns sprinkle the colorful coastline with pink and orange hues. Home to Portofino, the Italian Riviera is decorated with a plethora of neighboring villages, vibrant shades and decadent flavors, sure to make your tastebuds dance (especially after a spritz or two).
Just a two-hour train or car ride from Milan, Liguria è paradiso. The best way to see the Riviera is by car, so rent one in Milan, or when you arrive in Liguria to experience all the beauty that La Costiera has to offer.
Day 1: Lerici, Porto Venere, Palmeria Island
After arriving from Milan, start your day in the town of Lerici and relax on a secluded, tranquil beach at Eco del Mare (Echoes of the Sea) where seagulls sing in serene harmony. Nestled within a hidden cove, sunbeds line the sand along the beach oasis with glistening sapphire seas that rival Sardinia. It’s no wonder that the surrounding Bay is referred to as “Golfo dei Poeti” with its many wonders drawing famous poets and authors to the area since the early 600s.
After a few hours basking along Liguria’s sun-soaked shores, head 15-minutes up the coast along the Bay of Poets to the colorful town of Porto Venere, which translates to, “The Port of Venus.”
A 5-minute ferry ride transports you across the channel to Palmeria Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its hiking trails among wild goats, rare birds and reptile species that inhabit the lush landscape. Upon return to the mainland, enjoy an aperitivo as the sun sets over the turquoise waters at the Grand Hotel Portovenere before visiting the local shops.
Finish the day off by indulging in the region’s freshest seafood and wine pairings at 1918 in the heart of Lerici’s bustling Piazza Garibaldi. Stroll the enchanting streets with a gelato in hand and take in the true essence of “La Dolce Vita” on the Ligurian coast.
Day 2: Sestri Levante, Chiavari, Rapallo
Head up the coast and explore the peaceful seaside atmosphere of Sestri Levante, also known as “Sestri” by the locals. Surrounded by the “Baia di Silenzio” (Bay of Silence) on one side, and the “Baia delle Favole”(Bay of Fairy Tales) on the other, the mystical peninsula has attracted writers for decades and offers laid-back beach-side service directly on the sand, so you can swim, savor and sip all day long.
A 15-minute drive north will bring you to the medieval town of Chiavari, known for its iconic arched porticoes. Be sure to check out the weekly market, where hundreds of vendors sell local treasures – from cheeses to clothing, shoes and home décor. Indulge in a decadent gelato or cappuccino at the historical Gran Caffè Defilla right in the center of town.
The lively, yet quaint town of Rapallo awaits, with a 30-minute cliffside drive offering stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. Stroll the lungomare and enchanting streets with the locals before embarking on Liguria’s only cable car to the Sanctuary of Montallegro, offering breathtaking views of the Gulf of Tigullio.
Enjoy your evening aperitivo as the sun sets at the newly-opened, all-glass, two story Ö Magazìn, boasting breathtaking 360-degree views of Rapallo’s colorful harbor during golden hour.
A 10-minute stroll along the pastel port will lead you to Rapalà, offering delicious local faire and incredible hospitality. Fresh, local gamberi and pesto plates await, in one of the town’s charming piazzas.
Day 3: Rapallo, Camogli, San Fruttuoso, Portofino
Start the day in Rapallo at the locals’ favorite, Tossini with a quick espresso and pastry before heading over the hill to the Ligurian gem of Camogli. Easily the most colorful, and one of the largest seafront towns on the Italian Riviera, Camogli offers a casual atmosphere, with many “take away” options to enjoy – from spritzes, to homemade pasta bowls from Fiorella – an uncommon finding, appreciated by its beachgoers.
Only accessible via foot or by boat, San Fruttuoso awaits via a quick ferry ride from Portofino. San Fruttuoso is one of those places that feels like you’re living in a dream. This hidden cove was a former 10th Century monastery and offers incredible snorkeling and beachside dining. There’s truly nothing better than enjoying freshly caught calamari from crystal clear waters, all within a hidden location tightly tucked within the Italian coast.
Finish the day off in idyllic Portofino with an early dinner at Dai Gemelli, serving up local seafood specialties caught right from the waters that splash as you dine, and enjoy the perfect spot for people watching in the Riviera’s most iconic port.
If you’re looking for something more formal, dine at DaV Mare, sister restaurant to the Michelin-rated Da Vittorio in Milan, or head up to the Belmond Splendido for incredible views overlooking Portofino. After dinner, swing by the town of Santa Margherita Liguria, grab a gelato and enjoy a passegiata throughout the romantic streets, home to many locals who inhabit the Portofino coast year-round.
When to Visit:
May/June or September
Where to Stay:
