The region of Tuscany that stole my heart and changed my life will always be my Italian home away from home. My profound affection for Tuscany, though, is only somewhat rooted in nostalgia; while beauty abounds throughout Italy, this is especially true in Tuscany and even more so in autumn. Imagine my excitement as I drove a 5-speed coup on the winding roads lined with Cypress Trees and Umbrella Pines on a sun-splashed October day in the wine country of southern Tuscany. Between the long shadows of the majestic trees and the silhouette of Siena in the distance, the swooning vineyards of Chianti Classico, sheathed in leaves of vibrant fall colors, were bursting with purple grapes ready for harvest. The mid-day sun graced the gentle landscape in brilliant light; the air carried the scent of herbs and flowers and ripened grapes as I entered the gravel drive of Borgo San Felice.
Historically, the term “borgo” refers to a Medieval village or hamlet. In contemporary times, in certain cases, borgo is applied to reflect a new and splendid type of hospitality, where the former village edifices are refurbished into accommodations among all the services and splendor of a luxury hotel. Think of it as a hamlet-hotel. And think of Borgo San Felice as the perfect embodiment of the concept.
Within two-story structures of ancient stone, cloaked in turning ivy and topped by Spanish tiles, are 40 rooms and 23 suites, all elegantly detailed and spacious. Outside of the walls are meandering lanes of gravel, spotted with large vases of Geraniums, that lead to a piazza, a chapel, small shops, two restaurants, a spa, an outdoor bar, and a long pool overlooking the vineyards of the San Felice Wine Estate whose prestigious Chianti Classico appellations can be sampled in the resort’s cantina.
The enchanting grounds also include a working farm, an herb and vegetable garden, two villas in the vineyards, and a reception area with salons and a bar.
The property is operated by Relais & Chateau. The General Manager is Danilo Guerrini; Patrizia Chiari is the Hotel Manager. I had dinner with the former and a private tour with the latter; both exemplify the type of gracious expertise that extends to the entire staff and is the hallmark of world class hospitality.
Speaking of that meal, I opted for Osteria Il Grigio over the Michelin-starred Poggio Rosso. Both are under the auspices of Head Chef Stelios Sakalis, and his osteria menu offered my some of my favorite Tuscan plates, including chicken liver crostini (with a Vin Santo Jelly), Pici with wild boar ragu, Pappa al pomodoro, Bistecca Fiorentina, and my absolute favorite regional dish: Peposo, meat braised in red wine, which we enjoyed with some fried mushrooms from the impressive menu of contorni (sides). Of course, we washed everything down with exquisite San Felice Chiantis, including a Gran Selezione that rivals Tuscan titans, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. We finished with the estate’s robust yet sweet Vin Santo.
Have you ever opened terrace doors to a Tuscan sunrise? Or walked the grounds of a Medieval village as the rising sun burns the mist off nearby vineyards? Both are highly recommended and part of my experience after a fitful sleep in my so comfy suite. After the morning walk, I took full advantage of the Botanic Spa, housed in the borgo’s erstwhile olive press. They even have a wine therapy session, but it was a little early, even for this enthusiast. Afterward, I donned my swim trunks and took a cappuccino overlooking the pool before lounging by the waterside, enjoying dips as I waited for my al fresco lunch of a fabulous club sandwich with pancetta outside of Bar Archi.
All in all, Borgo San Felice is one of the rare places that makes you feel magical the entire duration of your stay; a place that makes you believe there is nowhere on earth you’d rather be; somewhere you want to tell people about and plan to return before departing. I hope to see you there this spring!
