When UNESCO formally recognized Italian cuisine as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity this past week, the announcement made global headlines. But the significance of the decision goes far beyond prestige. On BBC World Business Report, Appetito Magazine's Editor-in-Chief Andrew Cotto explored with program host Samantha Fenwick why this recognition matters now and what it reveals about Italy’s enduring relationship with food.
Can you explain what the UNESCO listing means?
Thanks for having me, Sam. This is really a big deal. It is the first time UNESCO has recognized a cultural heritage as being part of humanity. This is not a site that they’re designating around the world, which they normally do. It’s the recognition of something cultural with regards to heritage and humanity, which is immensely important. And it’s Italian cuisine, not a single dish or a recipe, but their entire embrace throughout the history of food as an integral part of their culture.
So it’s sort of an important recognition of the culture that food has or the part that food plays in Italian culture rather than sort of protecting Parmesan cheese or something like that?
Well, yes, I mean, protecting Parmesan cheese is actually part of it, but Italian food is the best food in the history of the world. And they emphasize - with great passion and throughout their history - quality ingredients, sourced locally, simply prepared, hopefully shared with others, slowly, if you’re eating around the table, and being present while you enjoy it. That’s humanity. I mean, this has been part of their traditions all along.
But many countries have food as a part of their culture. So why has Italy been picked for this particular status? Why wouldn’t you have Japanese food, for example?
I think Italians do this better than anyone else. And they do so with the knowledge that food is what informs and connects the other aspects of what can cherish your life - family, friendship, community, heritage, history. I’d also add self love and identity. I mean, you are what you eat, and Italian food is the best food in the world, so it makes us more human.
Do you expect this UNESCO listing to strengthen the international profile of Italian cuisine and help producers financially to produce authentic Italian ingredients?
Absolutely. This is a big boost for that, and I’m sure they’re thrilled. We’ve worked very closely at Appetito Magazine with the Italian Trade Agency, who’s been the major force behind this all along. We're promoting authentic products, helping to educate consumers about what made in Italy means, why they should care, and why they should look for the designations on the packaging. There are little red and blue labels for PGI (Protected geographical location) and PDO (Protected designation of origin). They indicate that these products have been regulated and looked over very carefully, and curated by the Italians. And they take great pride in promoting that.
Andrew, just very quickly, ’cause we’re coming to the end of the show. Do you think I’m still allowed to knock up my rather questionable bowl of pasta at home or will UNESCO be sending someone around to check up on me?
Well, I think you’ll be safe at home. I encourage you to carefully choose the ingredients and be sure to look for the Made in Italy designation on your pasta.
Cotto’s conversation with the BBC brought UNESCO’s decision back to the table where it belongs. Between shared meals, trusted ingredients, and a little patience, the interview captured why Italian cuisine does not need defending. It just needs to be enjoyed.
