When Borromini opened its doors in Philadelphia’s Rittenhouse Square, it marked another milestone for restaurateur and James Beard Award winner Stephen Starr, along with a new chapter for Executive Chef Julian Baker. The English-born chef’s three-decade journey has taken him from Michelin-starred dining rooms in Europe to Starr Restaurant Group's most anticipated Italian restaurant to date.
Before Borromini, Baker’s career spanned continents. Born in Sheffield, England, he trained under Chef Anton Edelman at London’s Savoy Hotel before refining his craft at the Michelin-starred Fishers of Baslow Hall in Derbyshire. He went on to cook across Europe and the United States, from the White Barn Inn in Maine to Bice restaurants in New York, Barcelona, and Monte Carlo, before settling in Miami, where he led Starr’s Le Zoo. His time in Italy, where he cooked in Milan, Trentino, and Tuscany, would ultimately shape his lasting connection to regional Italian cuisine.
A Turning Point in Italy
“I think I didn't fall in love with cooking until I'd learned to eat well and had been exposed to foods I didn't grow up eating,” said Chef Baker. “I was more intrigued with the industry as a young chef.”
That curiosity led him to Italy — an experience he calls transformative. “The country runs on food,” he said. “The social aspect, the ingredients, the satisfaction of dining... it changed the way I thought about food and ingredients.”
Borromini’s menu, developed with award-winning Chef Mark Ladner, reflects Baker’s respect for Italian simplicity and technique. “Italian traditions influence my approach a lot,” he said. “I often think of how traditional recipes were done without all the modern techniques and equipment we use today.”
Some dishes, like the Chicken Liver Crostini and Ricotta Tortellini, hold a deeper connection. “They were inspired by my time in Tuscany,” he told Appetito, describing them as personal reminders of where his love for Italian cuisine truly took shape.
Inspiration, Connection, and Craft
Though Borromini’s design evokes a cinematic sense of Rome — vaulted ceilings, mosaic tilework, and 1920s-inspired finishes — the spirit of the restaurant reflects a traditional sense of craftsmanship. That same intention carries into Baker’s kitchen, where attention to detail defines his approach. “I try to avoid trends,” Chef Baker explained. “But I find inspiration through travel, dining out, old cookbooks, and of course social media. I also listen to guests, friends, and family.”
For him, the guest connection remains the measure of success. “A guest once told me that he loves it when I'm at the restaurant, but when I'm not, he feels my presence,” Baker told Appetito. As for first-timers, he keeps his recommendation simple: “Order the 100-Layer Lasagna or the Spaghetti al Limone, and don't skip the tiramisu.”
