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Roero, Where Art Thou? In the Hills and Hollows of Piemonte…

Our Editor-in-Chief visits an unfamiliar subzone in Piemonte and discovers hidden gems of both red and white varietals.

The vineyards of Roero in Italy's Piemonte region.

The vineyards of Roero in Italy’s Piemonte region.

When the email arrived with an invite for a press trip to a place called Roero, the Scooby-Doo voice in my little-boy brain said, “Row-Where-Roe???” But then I opened the invitation and learned that Roero is in the Cuneo province of Piemonte and part of the “Distretto Langhe, Roero e Monferrato” (a UNESCO World Heritage site). Being neighbors with Langhe and Monferrato, home of two of Italy’s most heralded wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, definitely caught the attention of the adult-functioning part of my brain. I accepted the invite to the EU sponsored Sip and Savor campaign with this trip hosted by the Consorzio Tutela Roero.

The first discovery upon arrival was that Roero is separated from Langhe and Monferrato by the Tanaro River. With jagged hills (perilously steep in places) and a distinct, soft soil of mostly sandstone with some marl, spotted with fossils from before the Pliocine period (2 to 3 million years ago) when the land emerged from the shallow waters, the Nebbiolo grapes, bottled as Roero Rosso, produce a less-tannic, more drinkable wine than their counterparts across the river. I found the Roero Rosso (DOCG) to pair wonderfully with the region’s signature dishes: Vitello Tonnato, Agnolotti del Plin, and Tarjin Pasta with Truffles (black or white, depending on the season for the latter).

Aged bottles of Roero Rosso Riserva at Azienda Agricola Malabaila.
Aged bottles of Roero Rosso Riserva at Azienda Agricola Malabaila.

Another revelation was the white grape known as Arneis. It’s, by far, the most heavily produced grape of the sub-zone (and only produced sparingly in a few other regions and countries). This is Arneis country, and the Roero Arneis (DOCG) dominates the volume bottled with its approachable white distinguished by notes of fruit, particularly the local Madernassa pear but also apricot and apple. This versatile wine also cuts nicely through and compliments the hearty regional cuisine.

Vitello Tonnato is a signature dish of Piemonte.
Vitello Tonnato is a signature dish of Piemonte.

Some other noteworthy varietals include Barbera, and there are very nice spumantes made from either 100% Arneis or a 50-50 blend of Arneis and Nebbiolo (the latter of which I quaffed early and often as an aperitivo). But if you are a wine lover, you are coming to Roero for the Arneis and Nebbiolo, respectively. And you are coming. Leave your silly Scooby-Doo voice at home.

The wines of Roero can be found at wine.com with price points starting in the $20s. Some producers to seek out include Malvira, Tibaldi, and Malabaila.

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