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Osteria Molo Brings Puglian Cooking to Newport Beach

Chef Piero Topputo and co-owner Michele Riviello are setting a high bar for Italian dining in Newport Beach.

Arancini with sauces, meatballs in tomato sauce, and focaccia on a table.

Arancini, meatballs, and focaccina at Osteria Molo. Photo by Patty Schmidt.

Michele Riviello is no newcomer to the restaurant world. Born in Gravina di Puglia, he began working at 14 before formally training at Scuola Alberghiera and continuing his career in London. By the early 1990s, he had landed in Los Angeles, where he spent a decade at Toscana in Brentwood before going on to help lead AGO Restaurant for more than twenty years. From there came a series of his own concepts, including Caffè Roma, Toscanova, and Caffè Amici, each building on a reputation for consistent, high level Italian dining.

In the kitchen, Chef Topputo brings that same depth of experience, shaped by the traditions of Southern Italy and years of hands-on work. Also born in Gravina, Topputo fondly remembers helping his mother in the kitchen, prepping and washing dishes. Today, his style stays close to the techniques and flavors he grew up with. He worked for 15 years at Toscana in Brentwood, earning the title of executive chef before becoming a founding partner at Caffè Roma, where he worked as Chef de Cuisine for many years. 

Outdoor dining area at Osteria Molo with wooden tables, chairs, and chandeliers.
Chef Topputo on the patio at Osteria Molo in Newport Beach. Photo credit: Patty Schmidt

That shared background is not just biographical. Both come from Puglia, where, as they explain, “the inspiration to become a chef grew from the love of watching our mothers cook.” That early exposure helped them appreciate the importance of community. “Food forms connections and brings people together,” Riviello told Appetito. 

Want more Puglia-inspired recipes and restaurant coverage? Explore Appetito’s Puglian cuisine section.

You see it in what comes out of the kitchen. The citrus avocado salad is layered with oranges, grapefruit, arugula, almonds and goat cheese. The crispy, saffron-rich arancini are served with both red and white sauces, while the meatballs arrive tender in tomato sauce with peas, alongside focaccina for soaking up every bit.

Citrus avocado salad with grapefruit, orange, goat cheese, and almonds on a plate with a glass of white wine.
Citrus avocado salad with oranges, grapefruit, arugula, almonds, and goat cheese at Osteria Molo. Photo by Patty Schmidt

The pastas are classic Italian flavors. Fettuccine alla bolognese is finished inside a Parmigiano Reggiano wheel before being coated in a rich ragù, while the cacio e pepe is stirred into a pecorino wheel, resulting in a sauce that is peppery and precise. It is no surprise these are among the dishes they point to when asked what they are most proud of, along with “all of our homemade pastas, the citrus avocado salad and the 7 Fishes Board.”

They keep the focus on authentic Italian cooking. The menu leans heavily on Puglian tradition, supported by broader influences from more than three decades of working in California. “After 35 years of living here, we have learned that our relationships with local vendors have reached a deep level of knowledge. Therefore, we implemented it into the quality of the products we use. In Italian, there’s the saying ‘kilometer zero,’ meaning we use local products that are not far.”

Plate of cacio e pepe pasta topped with grated cheese and black pepper.
Cacio e pepe with freshly grated cheese and black pepper. Photo by Patty Schmidt

They stay closely involved with the pasta from start to finish. “The process of all of our pastas being made needs our presence, approval and love,” Topputo explains. Seafood, he adds, is treated with particular dedication and attention, reflecting its importance in their region.

Even the ingredients that travel the farthest remain personal. “It’s as simple as our olive oil from our own town; it’s the motherland. We import ingredients from our land and the acquaintances around us - Elisir di Lunga Vita.”

Dessert is simple but decadent. The Nutella bread pudding is creamy and flavorful,  and the panna cotta with mixed berries is a refreshing way to end the meal. 

Glass jar of panna cotta topped with berry compote, strawberries, blueberries, and mint.
Panna cotta with mixed berries and fresh mint. Photo by Patty Schmidt

For Topputo and Riviello, the philosophy, like their pasta, is simple. “Love, passion, knowledge, and unfortunately, time. With time comes knowledge.” 

When asked what they hope their guests walk away thinking after their meal at Molo, their answer is quick. “A trip to Italy and back - with Molo on their pallet.”

Molo Osteria is located in Newport Beach. Visit OpenTable for reservations

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