Well-priced, thoughtfully produced wine is at the heart of White River Junction, VT-based Artisanal Cellars’ philosophy. Rafael (Raf) Flores started the business in 2007 with his brother Miguel as an importer and distributor of European wines. In Europe, what you find on someone’s table is probably from a familiar, local producer. It is also a wine that is not overworked. Like Italian cuisine, it lets the quality of ingredients speak for themselves.
Today, Raf and Winthrop Pennock, partners in the business (Miguel passed away a few years ago), continue to work with wines that come from organic, sustainable, and or biodynamic producers. They showcase wines that reflect a local, terroir-based aesthetic.
“We want to work with like-minded people,” Raf says. The producers and their wines embody that same integrity. For instance, their “Italian brother” Matteo Cantoni, an owner of Fattoria Fibbiano, a Chianti producer (among other wines) in the Terricciola area of Tuscany, produces exceptional wine. He and his family “are just good people.” His brother Nicola commented once, while touring the vineyards, that wine can only be as good as the soil it comes from. And thus, the importance of nurturing that soil, not bombarding it with chemicals, is where the beauty of wine resides.
Looking for more Italian wine guides and regional deep dives? Explore more wine coverage at Appetito.
Those pesticides and fertilizers become increasingly concentrated, from grape to wine, and the drinker absorbs those shortcuts. Matteo is a frequent presence in the US, meeting with customers and extolling the importance of small production. Raf noted that, “Sometimes we just meet [producers] and think ‘hey, I like these people.’”
Indeed, whatever you taste from Artisanal Cellars’ “book” will be unique and delicious. Whether grown sustainably, organically, or biodynamically, eco-friendly farming seeks to “align all the forces of Nature, creating a natural harmony” (per The Wine Bible). Farming within this paradigm is not an extractive endeavor; it aims to create a living balance in the vineyards and, in the process, a healthier environment. Small growers nurture and enhance their land and are the logical alternative to mass-produced wines.
Initially, some thought that Artisanal Cellars’ vision was pitting their niche approach in a David-versus-Goliath battle with entrenched corporations. But their dedication to high quality and nuance has caught on and prevailed. It is as if they have a sixth sense for wines.
Twenty years ago, Artisanal Cellars was heavily skewed toward Austria. “At the time, Austrian wines were a new thing in the US,” Raf said. This segment opened the door for them with many customers. As an example, “When [the Maine distributors] first tasted with us years ago, they came over to us because we were mainly importing Austrian.” Fast forward to today: next month at their spring tasting in Maine, Artisanal Cellers will be pouring equal numbers of Italian and Austrian wines. As of now, about half their business is Austrian wines, about a third is Italian; the remainder is a global mix.
Next up: Alto Piedmont. Carema, specifically, is the latest star, emblematic of Artisanal Cellars’ philosophy. “This is my favorite thing right now, Carema," Raf says. "It’s the smallest DOC in the world, only 19 hectares.” The landscape is rugged and mountainous, with vineyards on ancient terraces. It is about an hour north of Turin and is very close to Valle d’Aosta.
Artisanal Cellars works with two producers from this valley, importing fewer than 30 cases of wine. The impossible economics of the wine business aside, 360 bottles of imported wine is the epitome of niche, terroir-specific tasting. “I’m interested in wines of place," Raf says. "I don’t want to work with any homogenous stuff."
Nebbiolo reigns in Carema. It is the grape that gives us Barolo and Barbaresco (wines named after the respective towns in Piedmont). Though the grape is the same, the outcome is entirely defined by location. In Carema, “It’s mountain Nebbiolo," Raf says. "It's just amazing, man!” Being in the foothills of the Alps changes the character, from a wine where “flavors hurl themselves over you like a stormy ocean wave” (The Wine Bible). Raf describes Cantina Togliana’s wines as, “Just unbelievably elegant and stunning. Fresh and happy," he says. "Joe Big Balls that wants a giant, masculine red wine is going to look at it and say ‘ugh, whatever…’ but for me, smelling it, it smells like flowers. It’s just a killer wine!”
Talk with your local wine shop about finding Artisanal Cellars’ wines. There is a wealth of information on their website, including tech sheets and winery details. Armed with all this information, a fantastic bottle from a reputable producer is nearly in hand.
Enjoyed this article? Sign up for the Appetito newsletter and receive new recipes, stories, and Italian inspiration straight to your inbox.
