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Regional Italian Desserts and Where to Get Them in NYC

Our correspondent and pastry chef shares a tour of regional Italian desserts and where to find them in New York City.

A connolo in NYC.

A connolo in NYC.

From the snowcapped mountains of the Aosta Valley to the sun-blessed coastlines of Sicily, Italy tempts us with a culinary map of foods rooted in tradition, that exalt natural flavors and seasonality, pleasing the palate with distinct offerings in each of its 20 regions. While pasta is queen in La Cucina Italiana, cornetto is king, and indulging in sweets is a day-long affair in the country of “la dolce vita,” from breakfast pastries to late-night gelato, and cannoli in between. Luckily for us, many of Italy’s iconic regional sweets have found a permanent home in NYC for those looking to surrender to their delicious charm without the need for a passport.

Marocchino

Technically a coffee drink, but indulgent enough to qualify as dessert, the Marocchino originated in Turin, in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. It’s a layered beverage composed of cocoa, espresso, and milk with a creamy consistency and rich flavor. It’s served in a glass so the layers can be seen. While Marocchino means Moroccan, this drink is truly an Italian invention, and the name is inspired by the similitude in color to a high-end Italian leather.

Marocchino, a traditional dessert/drink, is offered at Cinico Coffee Company in Midtown Manhattan.
Marocchino, a traditional dessert/drink, is offered at Cinico Coffee Company in Midtown Manhattan.

In the heart of Midtown Manhattan, Cinico Coffee Company makes an iced version of Marocchino with Nutella that satisfies your coffee and dessert needs in one sip. Nutella is spread around a glass an ice-filled glass, and a shot of espresso is poured and topped with milk, resulting in a refreshing yet luscious potion.

Tiramisu

One of the most adored Italian desserts, Tiramisu, the name of which derives from Treviso dialect to mean “pick-me-up,” can now be found on tables all over Italy and beyond. Hailing from the Veneto region, this dessert is made iconic, perhaps, due to its simplicity. Savoiardi (ladyfingers) are soaked in espresso and layered with mascarpone cream, then dusted with cocoa powder. No longer a strictly Venetian dessert, Tiramisu abounds in NYC and has a place on the menu at Antica Pesa. 

Tiramisu is a specialty on the dessert menu at Brooklyn's Antica Pesa.
Tiramisu is a specialty on the dessert menu at Brooklyn's Antica Pesa.

Known for their cacio e pepe and beloved for their hospitality, Antica Pesa is a Roman institution with a second spot in Williamsburg that has Brooklynites infatuated. The Panella family has been in hospitality for over 100 years, and the Williamsburg location is run by brothers Simone and Francesco Panella. Francesco hosts the Italian TV show “Little Big Italy,” where he discusses, tongue-in-cheek, the “italianita’” of dishes around the world. It’s no surprise then that for Tiramisu, Antica Pesa serves up a classic rendition of the dessert, where sweet creamy mascarpone complements the slight bitterness of espresso-soaked ladyfingers, resulting in a spoonful that will have Italian grandmothers saying, “Mamma Mia!”

Maritozzo

In the central Italian region of Lazio, Maritozzo alla Panna is a darling of Romans who’ve indulged in this treat since ancient times. Its name is derived from the word “marito” (Italian for husband) and these brioche-filled buns were purportedly given by groomsmen to future brides as a symbol of love. 

A maritozzo at Travelers, Poets & Friends in NYC's West Village.
A maritozzo at Travelers, Poets & Friends in NYC's West Village is recommended by our contributor.

Travelers Poets & Friends in the West Village, a “part time” café bar, bakery, bottega, pasta shop, and bistro, as well as a full-time temple of gastronomy, makes a maritozzo that’s a testament to the beauty of simplicity. An ethereally light and airy, barely sweet bun is slit open and filled with equally light panna (cream) and finished with a delicate dusting of sugar. The ensuing pastry is a perfect bite for those who enjoy restraint in sweetness and a great complement to a strong cup of morning cappuccino.

Gelato

Located in Tuscany, the region of Italy characterized by rolling hills and cypress trees, Florence is the birthplace of gelato. This fact is made clear when strolling the historic streets of this Renaissance city, where the frozen dessert can be found in countless gelaterias and enjoyed all day long, as well as late into the night as an after-dinner treat. The silky rich, melt-in-your-mouth texture of gelato has won it a scoop on cones and cups the world over.

Albero dei Gelati i Brooklyn's Park Slope has traditional Italian gelato.
Albero dei Gelati i Brooklyn's Park Slope has traditional Italian gelato.

Albero dei Gelati, the shop appropriately named “Gelato Tree” because of its commitment to sustainability and sourcing farm-fresh ingredients, brings the Italian tradition of gelato making to their Park Slope, Brooklyn location. Here, local seasonal fresh fruit and organic eggs are blended with authentic Italian ingredients, hazelnuts from Piemonte, and almonds from Avola in Sicily, among others, to create a gelato that’s light, refreshing, and well-balanced. Classic flavors like Fragola, made with organic strawberries and pistacchio, can be scooped along with more innovative options like Burro & Sale (Butter & Salt) and Sage with Mint and Basil — a frozen version of pesto.

Torta Ricotta e Pera

In the Southern Italian region of Campania, Amalfi Coast native Chef Sal de Riso created the now-popular ricotta and pear cake. A later addition to the Italian sweet gastronomy, first mentioned in the recipe books in the late 1990s, this tasty dessert is made up of crunchy layers of biscuit, sweet ricotta filling, and pear chunks — and it’s also found its way to NYC.

The Ricotta e Pera Torta at Song'E Napule is available in all four of their NYC area locations.
The Ricotta e Pera Torta at Song'E Napule is available in all four of their NYC area locations.

With three locations across the city and one in NJ, Song'E Napule, is known for their mouth-watering Neapolitan pizza and trattoria fare. But at this soccer-loving eatery, where the walls are plastered with the image of soccer idol Diego Maradona, all the desserts score a “goal,” and the Ricotta & Pear Cake is not to be missed. The secret to their delicious cake is the contrast in textures and well-balanced flavors. Smooth ricotta cream and pieces of pear are sandwiched between crispy hazelnut biscuits for a perfect pairing.

Cannoli

Cannoli need no introduction. Undoubtedly the most iconic Sicilian treat, a delicious cannolo is hard to resist. A heritage of the Sicilian Art of Convent Pastry, an authentic cannolo is made of a crispy fried dough shell, filled with lightly sweetened sheep’s milk ricotta, garnished with candied cherries and orange peel, and finally dusted with sugar.

Mini-cannoli, with imported sheep's milk ricotta, are available at Villabate Alba in Brooklyn.
Mini-cannoli, with imported sheep's milk ricotta, are available at Villabate Alba in Brooklyn.

In Brooklyn, Villabate Alba Pasticceria makes one such cannolo with ricotta imported from Sicily and a hand-made shell. Order the mini-sized cannoli and they will be filled à la minute, a perfect snack to accompany afternoon coffee.

Cornetto

Transcending all regions, cornetto with espresso or cappuccino is a staple breakfast for Italians who love to start the day with a sweet bite. Not to be confused with croissants, their egg-less, more buttery French cousin, cornetti (little horns) can be enjoyed vuoto (plain), or ripieno (filled) with apricot, vanilla custard and Nutella. 

Cornetto alla Crema, personally made at Casa Salvo by Chef Salvo Lo Castro.
Cornetto alla Crema, personally made at Casa Salvo by Chef Salvo Lo Castro.

At Casa Salvo on the Upper West Side, Sicilian chef Salvo Lo Castro provides New Yorkers with an authentic Italian breakfast experience, including the price and hospitality. For $2.51, New Yorkers can get a cappuccino with organic milk from Italy, practice their Italian with Chef Salvo—whose passion and enthusiasm for Italian food is palpable—and enjoy a cornetto for an additional $3 made by Chef himself. Lightly sweetened, the cornetti at this Upper West Side café/bottega, have layers that melt in your mouth. While Cornetto alla Crema is filled with a sweet vanilla custard that wonderfully blends in with the layers of dough, the Pistachio Cornetto steals the show with a delicate pistachio cream with pieces of pistachio that add bursts of crunchiness. With two more openings on the way, in SoHo and on Lexington Ave, it’s clear that Chef Salvo’s offerings have New Yorkers exclaiming “Buongiorno!”

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